New Grenadier Owner in SoCal

MrWiggles

Member
Hi guys,

Checking in. I just moved out of my Tundra into a Trial Master. I am going to explore builds here, and I am actually exploring the possibility of a trailer.
Since this is such a new platform, I would love to hear your experiences around lifts (drive shafts), tire sizes, roof racks, and armor. I definitely want to optimize weight and range with this this build, so I am thinking minimal lift (if any), 35's, and an engine and transfer case aluminum skid plate. I am also looking for the best solution to install scene lights on the side without having to depend on any one brand of rack.

Look forward to talking and learning.
 

zimm

Expedition Leader
I own one. theres a 50% to 100% premium on products compared to the same thing for an fj80, as a reference point.

The baja boss and kendas will apparently work without a lift. People that judge the performance of offroad tires by looking at a tread pattern on smooth hard concrete, will tell you tall and skinny is good. If that's you, then, there are your two 35" options. Agile Offroad has an alloy 17x8 30mm bs, That if you measure is likely the ideal dimensions for those tires without a lift.

Rival is your best bet for the Al plates. I've always done steel, for strength and "smooth" sliding, but there are no good steel options at the moment and the rival prices arent horrible. For all the plates need for this, fabbing good 1/4" thick will set you back 250-300lbs on the gvwr, so its worth the chance, for me.

LFD and White knuckle make a "traditional" slider at a reasonable cost. I'm going to try the Agile Offroad, which are rocker mounted. If you dont want a lift, they may be the way to save 3" on the breakover. Rocker mounted works for the Gwagon, but the G has a sturdy mounting point there. This is an experiment for me. I may add 1/4" strip to the bottom to feel good. There are other sliders that I'm sure work, and meet different goals, like steps, but I chuckel at the idea of 2800 dollar sliders. You gotta be an idiot.

The strongest RR is the factory full rack, but it makes the roof glass inoperable. the classic welded hannible I think is now available. There's a ton of overpriced erector set options out there if thats your speed.

America long range has a spare tank coming out in april if you think you need it.

There's are some ridiculously priced winch bumpers out there, and even a brush bars 2000 - 2500 dollars, (see above for my opinion) but LFD makes a traditional center section that has full access to the drum (not hidden) for those that know what they are doing and want access to the drum, and its only 1000 bucks, which, is a premium, but the best price out there.

Your lift options are eibach, and eibach. if you put them on, please take off the damn driveshaft so you don't inadvertently pinch the boot on the cv's. There have been couple boot failures from stock rigs reported, but I notice none of the faild boots on lifted rigs have people positively confirming they removed the shaft and didnt let the axle drop with it on.

I think Dissent is comming out with a rear bumber with twin arms... to do exactly what the doors do now. Go figure. I thought it was nice not having to bend down and undo latches before the door, but, thats me.

You can attach lights to the grab handles and use the power ports up there. 1 switch does 1, 1 switch does 3. Theres a Dr-Roks manual for the Gren on the gren forum, that I strongly suggest you familiarize yourself with. That guy is th definition of awesome for making it.

I think that cliff noted your post.
 

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