khronus79
Adventurer
xray, could you post more info on your wheels, I know they are Redbourne but which ones and where did you get them, I can only find Redbournes in 20" or bigger.
Overland Journal Project Land Rover Discovery 4 (LR4)
- Thread starter Scott Brady
- Start date
xray, could you post more info on your wheels, I know they are Redbourne but which ones and where did you get them, I can only find Redbournes in 20" or bigger.
xray132
New member
khronus79
Sorry khronus79 ….I run
20’s Hyper Silver Duke’s , I believe they do not manufacture the 18’s anymore. Have your tire store call the factory and see if they have any hanging around. If I remember right, Redbourne is an off shoot of one of the large makers. They run a greater offset for the wider tires. These are 285’s and there is a lot of clearance up top.
Sorry khronus79 ….I run
20’s Hyper Silver Duke’s , I believe they do not manufacture the 18’s anymore. Have your tire store call the factory and see if they have any hanging around. If I remember right, Redbourne is an off shoot of one of the large makers. They run a greater offset for the wider tires. These are 285’s and there is a lot of clearance up top.
khronus79
Adventurer
Xray thanks for that piece of info.
Those Duke's you have are the 20x9.5 +32mm ??? with 285/55/20 BFG T/A K/O's?? Inner clearance is basically the same as stock(you got 2mm more according to the offset calculator), with your 32" tires do you still rub in the same offending places??? how much outter clearance do you have when the suspension is articulating???
It turns out that TSW wheels is the parent company of Redbourne, Mandrus, Huntington, etc..... I'm off to search and see if I come up with something.
I'm thinking a 18x8 with a 20mm to 25mm offset which would basically eliminate the need for the 30mm spacers(seems like I'll might be able to go as low as a 10mm offset and still stay within the fender well???), or a 18x9 +30 although I'll loose some inner clearance.
Just to be clear, stock LR3 wheels are 18x8 +53mm, 72.56 Bore and 5x120 PCT, 14mm Bolt diameter.
What is the load rating of factory wheels???
Those Duke's you have are the 20x9.5 +32mm ??? with 285/55/20 BFG T/A K/O's?? Inner clearance is basically the same as stock(you got 2mm more according to the offset calculator), with your 32" tires do you still rub in the same offending places??? how much outter clearance do you have when the suspension is articulating???
It turns out that TSW wheels is the parent company of Redbourne, Mandrus, Huntington, etc..... I'm off to search and see if I come up with something.
I'm thinking a 18x8 with a 20mm to 25mm offset which would basically eliminate the need for the 30mm spacers(seems like I'll might be able to go as low as a 10mm offset and still stay within the fender well???), or a 18x9 +30 although I'll loose some inner clearance.
Just to be clear, stock LR3 wheels are 18x8 +53mm, 72.56 Bore and 5x120 PCT, 14mm Bolt diameter.
What is the load rating of factory wheels???
Last edited:
xray132
New member
Rub? If they don't rub there not big enough
Rub, yes they did, in all the right places. Heater hoses in passenger rear wheel well have been relocated. Inner rear fender seams were flattened and inner fenders were heated up and flattened. Rover Specialties Sliders had about an inch cut off the front of them. The notorious frame horns are out and laying on the floor of the garage, they will be modified and remounted later. Most of the front inner wheel well plastic has been heated or cut. My air bag failure prototype rescue units are completed for the front so at least I can steer to the pavement.
Rub, yes they did, in all the right places. Heater hoses in passenger rear wheel well have been relocated. Inner rear fender seams were flattened and inner fenders were heated up and flattened. Rover Specialties Sliders had about an inch cut off the front of them. The notorious frame horns are out and laying on the floor of the garage, they will be modified and remounted later. Most of the front inner wheel well plastic has been heated or cut. My air bag failure prototype rescue units are completed for the front so at least I can steer to the pavement.
Scott Brady
Founder
No
Unfortunately, people believe that lifting a vehicle allows a larger tire to fit, when in fact, is has nothing to do with it. The stroke of the suspension is the same, so the lift solves nothing with regards to tire fitment (unless you are just going to drive on the street). What allows the tires to fit is all the complex trimming, spacing, bump stop adjustments, steering stops, wheel offset and even tire type.
I believe the investment is worthwhile - others may not.
For most backcountry touring, the 32 is more than sufficient.
Scott Brady
Founder
Sorry if my replies are slow over the next four weeks - we are heading out to the Canning Stock Route tomorrow.
Oh, you had to rub it in!
You guys travel save and be careful!
Don't let the Dingo get your baby!
Back again!
Thanks Scott and everyone else for your replies to my questions a few pages back - I have been off the grid other than checking in from time to time with the iPad taking care of my kids who can't seem to shake the last of the winter crud!
I ended up with a new '13 LR4, and of course it has 20's, and I have a set of near new BFG AT KO's that I popped off of my Range Rover before moving it on. Johnson rods are on at this point, as I had them laying in the shop drawer already - I will be ordering a programmer as soon as I can. As is to be expected, it rubs in all of the usual spots, and I am just curious as to what the common fix is for the rear passenger wheel well. I have no problem popping the front frame horns off and re-fabricating those, but that rear bump inside the wheel well has me a little perplexed. Is the common fix just to heat it up and try to reshape it? What's behind it? Can it be hammered down enough to clear? I have heard of people rerouting the HVAC lines, is that what is behind it? I know I need to just dig into it, I am just hoping to have as much information as possible going into it before I get it up on the lift and start going at a truck with 1500 miles on it with a hammer and a torch :sombrero: All of this will be nice to have out of the way, as I plan on running these through the summer and then switching to 18's and a set of MTR's before heading back out to Moab in October.
I'd like to thank everyone again for all of the help as well - I feel bad that my responses are often times days later, but I do really, REALLY appreciate the help and direction that can be gleaned from this site!
Thanks Scott and everyone else for your replies to my questions a few pages back - I have been off the grid other than checking in from time to time with the iPad taking care of my kids who can't seem to shake the last of the winter crud!
I ended up with a new '13 LR4, and of course it has 20's, and I have a set of near new BFG AT KO's that I popped off of my Range Rover before moving it on. Johnson rods are on at this point, as I had them laying in the shop drawer already - I will be ordering a programmer as soon as I can. As is to be expected, it rubs in all of the usual spots, and I am just curious as to what the common fix is for the rear passenger wheel well. I have no problem popping the front frame horns off and re-fabricating those, but that rear bump inside the wheel well has me a little perplexed. Is the common fix just to heat it up and try to reshape it? What's behind it? Can it be hammered down enough to clear? I have heard of people rerouting the HVAC lines, is that what is behind it? I know I need to just dig into it, I am just hoping to have as much information as possible going into it before I get it up on the lift and start going at a truck with 1500 miles on it with a hammer and a torch :sombrero: All of this will be nice to have out of the way, as I plan on running these through the summer and then switching to 18's and a set of MTR's before heading back out to Moab in October.
I'd like to thank everyone again for all of the help as well - I feel bad that my responses are often times days later, but I do really, REALLY appreciate the help and direction that can be gleaned from this site!
Hi,
This thread has been a little quiet so I figured I'd ask a LR4 related question and get the conversation going. I've been patiently waiting since January for the GAP IIDtool for the LR4 and heard "in about 3 months" back in January then in March I heard 2-4 weeks. I emailed GAP over 2 weeks ago and never received a response. Anyone have any communication with those guys?
This thread has been a little quiet so I figured I'd ask a LR4 related question and get the conversation going. I've been patiently waiting since January for the GAP IIDtool for the LR4 and heard "in about 3 months" back in January then in March I heard 2-4 weeks. I emailed GAP over 2 weeks ago and never received a response. Anyone have any communication with those guys?
SteveMfr
Supporting Sponsor
Hi Zecko,
Where did you send mail? PMs and such can sometimes get missed but we generally do not lose mail. Please send all inquiries to Support@ or GAPTeam@ our website.com. There are at least 3 of us making sure those mails are all taken care of.
To answer your question: the first shipment of D4 IIDTools is going out next week. They should be available at Britpart resellers within the next 3-4 weeks.
Where did you send mail? PMs and such can sometimes get missed but we generally do not lose mail. Please send all inquiries to Support@ or GAPTeam@ our website.com. There are at least 3 of us making sure those mails are all taken care of.
To answer your question: the first shipment of D4 IIDTools is going out next week. They should be available at Britpart resellers within the next 3-4 weeks.
getlost4x4
Expedition Leader
nice truck I need one.
I submitted the question via your site in the form.
Thanks for the answer. So who in the US is an authorized reseller? Britpart is in Europe, correct?
