Overland Journal Project Land Rover Discovery 4 (LR4)

[Jwestpro]

...We have all seen Land Rover take a completely different approach to vehicle design and systems since those classic, Camel Trophy era machines. I had all but discounted the new offerings, but my opinion on the newer Land Rovers changed when I purchased a Range Rover MKIII for my wife (Stephanie is the designer of Overland Journal) and then subsequently took a month-long trip in Australia with a Discovery 3 (LR3).
The quality of the new Land Rovers has increased so significantly that he now employes only six technicians. This is big news - modern Land Rovers seem to be pretty reliable.


We obtained a 2012 LR4 for testing and put it through the paces. I really liked it.

2.5 years on now. When you chose this LR4 in 2012, the current supercharged V6 was not an option in North America. If you had to do it over, and had both engines and transmissions to choose from, which do you think you'd want to try starting now? As far as I know all systems that matter much are identical aside from the engine and transmission.

The interior of the 2012 is close enough to 2015 to call it identical for purpose of this question so it's really specifically about the mechanical items alone. The obvious differences being slight fuel economy and 8 spd transmission vs more total grunt in the V8. Yet where it matters most, off road going slow in low range, there may be nearly no appreciable difference. Though anyone towing will probably want as much motor as possible so priorities can vary widely. I do wonder about long term servicing of a supercharger vs standard v8.

Some people, usually those who've already bought a SCV6, claim better high altitude power retention making the results similar, those with V8 are generally glad to hear the engine growl. Not much buyers remorse or envy on either side.

Those considering an LR4 now though are in an interesting position, worrying about the demise of the boxy shape forthcoming and climbing pricing, and with "barely pre-owned" V8's to choose from vs SCV6.

 

[zelatore]

2.5 years on now. When you chose this LR4 in 2012, the current supercharged V6 was not an option in North America. If you had to do it over, and had both engines and transmissions to choose from, which do you think you'd want to try starting now? As far as I know all systems that matter much are identical aside from the engine and transmission.

The interior of the 2012 is close enough to 2015 to call it identical for purpose of this question so it's really specifically about the mechanical items alone. The obvious differences being slight fuel economy and 8 spd transmission vs more total grunt in the V8. Yet where it matters most, off road going slow in low range, there may be nearly no appreciable difference. Though anyone towing will probably want as much motor as possible so priorities can vary widely. I do wonder about long term servicing of a supercharger vs standard v8.

Some people, usually those who've already bought a SCV6, claim better high altitude power retention making the results similar, those with V8 are generally glad to hear the engine growl. Not much buyers remorse or envy on either side.

Those considering an LR4 now though are in an interesting position, worrying about the demise of the boxy shape forthcoming and climbing pricing, and with "barely pre-owned" V8's to choose from vs SCV6.

Were I to replace my current LR3 tomorrow, I'd be looking for a final-year V8 LR4. I'll pass on the SCV6. Several members of our club have done exactly this in the last year as well, so among those who use the trucks off-road, the answer seems to be soundly on the used V8 instead of the new SCV6.

 

[Jwestpro]

Were I to replace my current LR3 tomorrow, I'd be looking for a final-year V8 LR4. I'll pass on the SCV6. Several members of our club have done exactly this in the last year as well, so among those who use the trucks off-road, the answer seems to be soundly on the used V8 instead of the new SCV6.

No, I don't think it's that simple, and my question is not in regard to cost either, which is what many people use as their reason. Because other people will have their own reasons, we could debate it for pages.

The question is posed to Scott though because he was not in the position to choose a 2 year old 5.0 V8 for $20-$25k less than a new SCV6.

 

[Mako1114]

My wife and I drove both the 2012 V8 and 2015 with SCV6 and honestly preferred the feel and response of the V8 over the V6 so we bought a minty 2012 HSE with only 21K miles. We found the SCV6 engine noise noticeably louder than the V8 which I assume is a function of the super charger? The SCV6 appeared to have plenty of power and the fuel economy is reportedly slightly better than the V8.

As an aside, we didn't care for the engine's auto-shut-down feature on the 2015 which occurs at every stop unless it is manually deactivated after each engine start. I understand this is the way of the future and in a few years most vehicles will have this feature without option for manual deactivation.

Cheers

 

[Scott Philbrook]

Hey guys, I just joined. I purchased a 2013 LR4 last week and it's on it's way to me now. I am selling a 2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited with an intense Overland build. 37's, 4.5" lift etc. I do not want to go crazy with my LR4, but I definitely want to look at putting the K02's on 18's with it like you've done here David and your A/T KO's with the Compomotives. My question is are no spacers required with the Compomotives? This is a simple upgrade right? Just throw on the wheels and tires and all is good? No rubbing, caliper trimming, body or frame trimming, or other adjustments needed? And also can ride out on the bump stops?

Additionally, with the GAP IIDTool and programming a lift, you just set a new bottom ride height and it sticks?

Also, my Rubicon got too heavy. I put too much stuff on it. I've learned a lot. Do you have concerns about the weight addition of the skid plates, ARB Front Bumper and Warn etc?

Pict of my Jeep and Pict of my LR4 on it's way to me.



Thanks in advance.
Scott

 

[axels]

Hey Scott
Nice rides.
You're correct about the IIDTool.
I run DuraTrac in 265/65R18 and after over 30,000 miles they still rub at full lock against the frame horns.
You should not have problems at access height.
Most people seem to have less rubbing as miles go by. It isn't true for me.
Have fun.

 

[Scott Philbrook]

Hey Scott
Nice rides.
You're correct about the IIDTool.
I run DuraTrac in 265/65R18 and after over 30,000 miles they still rub at full lock against the frame horns.
You should not have problems at access height.
Most people seem to have less rubbing as miles go by. It isn't true for me.
Have fun.

Thanks Axels, do you have spacers and what wheels are you running?

 

[axels]

No spacers required.
Compomotive 18s satin black
I know you know this already but make sure to get 5 as you could need a spare tire matching the size of your other wheels.

 

[Ray_G]

Also, my Rubicon got too heavy. I put too much stuff on it. I've learned a lot. Do you have concerns about the weight addition of the skid plates, ARB Front Bumper and Warn etc?

Great looking truck. In terms of weight concerns I think your experience with your Jeep will be a good guide; I typically apply a methodology where you look at the requirement based off the intended purpse/likely employment of the vehicle. That said the moment you start to deviate from stock form you start the pattern of compromise and it is very easy to drop $$$ on armor and such quickly and realize you've built a truck that no longer handles the way you want for very limited return on the investment. Put another way the LR4 is incredibly capable in stock form, every modification should be a deliberate decision to offset some potential weakness.

-The weight of the bumper and the winch shouldn't be too bad, especially if you use synthetic
-Skids underneath some will say are mandatory, I would say it depends on intended application-if you plan on doing a lot of forest roads and just want solid inclement weather capability for you and your family, they may not be as critical.
-18's with good tires won't detract much and offer significant benefit.

On my LR3 compared to my D1 I have tried very hard to keep her from getting too chunky, so far it seems to be working and I have found there is elegance is simple mods without going too far.
r-
Ray

 

[Jwestpro]

Hey guys, I just joined. I purchased a 2013 LR4 last week and it's on it's way to me now. I am selling a 2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited with an intense Overland build. 37's, 4.5" lift etc. I do not want to go crazy with my LR4, but I definitely want to look at putting the K02's on 18's with it like you've done here David and your A/T KO's with the Compomotives. My question is are no spacers required with the Compomotives? This is a simple upgrade right? Just throw on the wheels and tires and all is good? No rubbing, caliper trimming, body or frame trimming, or other adjustments needed? And also can ride out on the bump stops?

Congratulations. Looks like the classy green paint. Nice!

I think your post would be better in your own new thread for questions and input. This Journal thread is really supposed to be more about their specific vehicle and its ongoing progress or questions related to the project.

 

[mpinco]

Welcome!

As far as weight, load range E tires will be a minimum.

 

[Kgh]

The LR4 lessons learned on this thread are invaluable.

Let me start by stating I now have Johnson rods (thanks Charlie!!) and ordered 1.5 inch spacers off of the "for sale " section here at a great price (Thanks, drcooper!!). LR3 rims are abundant in SoFL for under $500/4, as Miami is all blinged on 22s.

I attended Old North State Land Rover Society URE12 in my 2012 LR4 with factory 20"s and stock tires. On some of the rocky trails the 20"s, although aired down, would occasionally slip the bead and "outgas". And in a particularly nasty mud rut, one of the fronts slipped off the bead, filled with mud, and held 10 psi. Airing up to 40, and finishing the trail, pushed the bead back to the proper seating.

When spotters hear your tires suddenly hiss out air, they seem to assume one has popped an air bag...lol.

 

[perro-from-hell]

Hey I'm start recently camping on my lr4 2011. Sleeping inside was a great idea first but then the battery run out after open and closing doors. Any advice how to prevent that? Thanks

 

[umbertob]

Use the sunroof to get in and out?

You may want to get your battery checked if it dies that easily, but turning off the automatic dome/door lamps that fire up every time you open or unlock a door would be a good start. Press and hold the center button on the front overhead console for about 5 seconds, until the dome lights flash once and the instrument cluster displays "Interior lights off" (or something to that effect.) To enable the auto dome lights again, repeat the same operation. I have also replaced the factory incandescent dome, foot wells and trunk bulbs with W5W Osram LEDriving 4000K, they shine much brighter while using 80% less juice (1 watt versus 5), for whenever I do need those lamps to turn on. Every little bit helps...

 

[Ray_G]

Umbertob's reccomendations are spot on; disable the automatic function of the lamps and also swap over to LEDs for lower draw. I did the same, albeit at 6000k, and have been very happy with the results.