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[Inyo_man]

I just did Death Valley a few weeks ago and took Steele Pass from the Dunes, then up Lippencott, then Hunter Pass, it was fine but like mentioned the Washboard at the top and bottom of Lippencott is more brutal than I've seen out there and I actually broke an OME rear shock eye clean off. I was hoping to go fast enough to "float" over it but there was no floating over that lolView attachment 864994

Wow! The snow levels must be very low if Hunter Mt. is clear.

Cheers

 

[Motafinga]

Wow! The snow levels must be very low if Hunter Mt. is clear.

Cheers

It was then, couple small ice patches but mostly perfect weather and clear roads

 

[Fergie]

I had the same question - had planned to use flexible lines , but have seen most installs use copper hard lines. Are there specific reasons for the hard lines?

So, after much research, if you use properly rated hose, UL 21CGA, with 3/8" ID for enough BTUs, you'll be fine. So, thats what I am going to do. I'll mount the regulator in a hobby box that can be sealed off from the elements, and a QD on the outside, and that should be good.

 

[Double Down]

So, after much research, if you use properly rated hose, UL 21CGA, with 3/8" ID for enough BTUs, you'll be fine. So, thats what I am going to do. I'll mount the regulator in a hobby box that can be sealed off from the elements, and a QD on the outside, and that should be good.

Great info, thanks!

 

[dstefan]

I just did Death Valley a few weeks ago and took Steele Pass from the Dunes, then up Lippencott, then Hunter Pass, it was fine but like mentioned the Washboard at the top and bottom of Lippencott is more brutal than I've seen out there and I actually broke an OME rear shock eye clean off. I was hoping to go fast enough to "float" over it but there was no floating over that lolView attachment 864994

Curious how aired down were you and what tire load rating were you running. I had a terrible drive on Hole in the Rock Road last year with my icon shocks turned totally soft and my E rated tires at like 22-24, which is about as low as I like to go on non sandy surfaces. Usually can speed plane over the washboards, with my set up and it helped a bit, but not that much, course not much helps for REALLY bad washboards. I shoulda slowed waaaaay down, but it was a very long road . . .

 

[Motafinga]

Curious how aired down were you and what tire load rating were you running. I had a terrible drive on Hole in the Rock Road last year with my icon shocks turned totally soft and my E rated tires at like 22-24, which is about as low as I like to go on non sandy surfaces. Usually can speed plane over the washboards, with my set up and it helped a bit, but not that much, course not much helps for REALLY bad washboards. I shoulda slowed waaaaay down, but it was a very long road . . .

I have C rated 31.5 tires and was aired down to 25. It was just to rough to tame with any setup probably. Maybe a trophy truck could get over 20mph w/o drama lol

 

[dirtnsmores]

I have C rated 31.5 tires and was aired down to 25. It was just to rough to tame with any setup probably. Maybe a trophy truck could get over 20mph w/o drama lol

Down to 18 would have made a huge difference

 

[sea_weathered]

It’s about a 20 mile stretch through Saline Valley that is really bad. I’m on E-rated Falken Wildpeaks, aired down to 19psi. I have a combination of Ironman struts, Icon RXT leaf springs and Fox 2.0 shocks. Slowing down to 5-7mph was the only thing that didn’t rip my truck and camper completely apart

 

[dirtnsmores]

Ended up installing my flexible solar panel about 8 months ago with a method that was recommended to me by an offroad shop. the guy has done this for years with no issues from customers. dual lock heavy duty velcro and RV tape. I know mounting solid panels to a roof rack is the best method for airflow, but this also allows SOME airflow. Check it out...

 

[MR E30]

Curious how aired down were you and what tire load rating were you running. I had a terrible drive on Hole in the Rock Road last year with my icon shocks turned totally soft and my E rated tires at like 22-24, which is about as low as I like to go on non sandy surfaces. Usually can speed plane over the washboards, with my set up and it helped a bit, but not that much, course not much helps for REALLY bad washboards. I shoulda slowed waaaaay down, but it was a very long road . . .

FWIW, when running nasty washboard roads I am at full STIFF for my suspension, and down to 18 (sometimes 12) psi in my E Loads.

* Full stiff was relayed to me by my 2nd gen turned trophy truck driving local friend.

 

[dstefan]

FWIW, when running nasty washboard roads I am at full STIFF for my suspension, and down to 18 (sometimes 12) psi in my E Loads.

* Full stiff was relayed to me by my 2nd gen turned trophy truck driving local friend.

Full stiff is interesting. For my setup it feels way harsher, even on city streets with minor asphalt repairs. I DO turn them all the way up for slow speed alternating camber or rolling rocky shelf roads, boulders, etc to reduce the head toss. Some minor washboard roads, I can run full stiff with airdown to mid-20s, but then if I stop and drop the compression to soft, it’s much improved, even not aired down further.

Are you (and/or your friend) running Icons or another digressive shock and do you have your front swaybar removed? I also wonder if he has a LT suspension. I can see that working on full stiff.

I’m pretty sure taking my front swaybar off would help, since I ran my Tacoma that way. I do know next time I’m on a class 6 washboarded road I’m definitely airing down to at least 18!

 

[MR E30]

Full stiff is interesting. For my setup it feels way harsher, even on city streets with minor asphalt repairs. I DO turn them all the way up for slow speed alternating camber or rolling rocky shelf roads, boulders, etc to reduce the head toss. Some minor washboard roads, I can run full stiff with airdown to mid-20s, but then if I stop and drop the compression to soft, it’s much improved, even not aired down further.

Are you (and/or your friend) running Icons or another digressive shock and do you have your front swaybar removed? I also wonder if he has a LT suspension. I can see that working on full stiff.

I’m pretty sure taking my front swaybar off would help, since I ran my Tacoma that way. I do know next time I’m on a class 6 washboarded road I’m definitely airing down to at least 18!

Yes, we all run some variant of upgraded mid-travel shock (ADS primarily). The guy with full LT is on ADS as well.

I do not have a front swaybar. Many others also do not.

Interesting that you go full stiff in the situations you describe; That is when I go full soft.

I can make either stiff or soft unbearable on a lot of washboard roads by picking a 'bad' speed to travel. I just find it easier, and it occurs at a more reasonable speed, to find a 'comfortable' ride with all (4) corners twisted to stiff.

I am finding no solid information on this topic on the internet, and I am no suspension expert, merely relaying what I have been told by folks who I think know what they are doing. Haha If you find something to the contrary please share it.

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

Tell me what you guys think "bad" corrugations look like please.
Is this "bad"?

Or is this "bad"?
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[dstefan]

Tell me what you guys think "bad" corrugations look like please.
Is this "bad"?

Or is this "bad"?View attachment 865444
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

The track in the video is the type that feels like smooth sailing in my rig. Love the sand. The second one is “bad” in size, but it’s not rocky. If the ridges are soft enough to to collapse with a kick, it might not be terrible. I know it’d be worse than that first one for sure, but we get hard washboards in the Southwest US that feel like concrete with embedded rocks that are IMO even worse than the second one.

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

The ones in the pic are solid, not sand.
Another...

Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome