OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!

[Motafinga]

Still have a ton of planning to do, but pretty happy with where I have my wiring diagram so far. Any input would be appreciated!

Going to build my own battery box out of a tool box since I am just not happy with any of the traditional commercially available power stations. Was using a Ecoflow for the 6 month but luckily I bought it from Costco, so it's going back to fund my build lol.

View attachment 899495

Are you going to put the batteries in the Cab or Camper? I opted to put my batteries and charging unit in the Cab for a few reasons. Saving all that space in the camper is a huge benefit and I only put my dog and gear in the cab behind my seats so the batteries go in the footwell and I made a platform that goes over that. I ran big wire to the camper and run my fusebox, charge ports and inverter there. The other reason is in cold weather, the camper gets extremely cold during a travel day and batteries won't accept a charge if it's under 32 deg. ( lifepo ) but the cab will always have the heat on while driving when it's cold. Something to think about

 

[RealRigsRattle]

Are you going to put the batteries in the Cab or Camper? I opted to put my batteries and charging unit in the Cab for a few reasons. Saving all that space in the camper is a huge benefit and I only put my dog and gear in the cab behind my seats so the batteries go in the footwell and I made a platform that goes over that. I ran big wire to the camper and run my fusebox, charge ports and inverter there. The other reason is in cold weather, the camper gets extremely cold during a travel day and batteries won't accept a charge if it's under 32 deg. ( lifepo ) but the cab will always have the heat on while driving when it's cold. Something to think about

I was planning on putting them in a packout style toolbox and leaving them in the camper for travel. I ran the last year with a makeshift rear seat platform and it just didn't meet our traveling style well.

We don't currently plan on camping much below freezing temps, so that will be a bridge I have to cross if we make that change. I would imagine someone makes a heated wrap, right? I believe I've seen them for traditional batteries.

I'm also planning on putting the DCDC charger in the packout as well, which I'm sure will help keep things warmer lol.

 

[Phessor]

Love all the patches, especially the ones w a Tryzub.. ;-)

Thanks, they mean a lot to me, I worked along side a lot of those guys.

 

[PirateMcGee]

Is that 1 in insulation that you also put in the ceiling?

Yes

 

[Inyo_man]

The other reason is in cold weather, the camper gets extremely cold during a travel day and batteries won't accept a charge if it's under 32 deg. ( lifepo ) but the cab will always have the heat on while driving when it's cold. Something to think about

The Battle Born has an internal heater that works a treat in the winter!
Cheers

 

[montechie]

Anyone here trim off some of their bed slide themselves yet? I know some have had OVRLND do it, just wondering if there are any gotchas with removing and reattaching the front wood lip. I assume it is screwed on, but am not sure yet.

We have about an extra 1 inch from our Exped Queen. Not much, but in a 5' Gladiator bed every inch of standing space counts.

 

[KellyM]

Anyone here trim off some of their bed slide themselves yet? I know some have had OVRLND do it, just wondering if there are any gotchas with removing and reattaching the front wood lip. I assume it is screwed on, but am not sure yet.

We have about an extra 1 inch from our Exped Queen. Not much, but in a 5' Gladiator bed every inch of standing space counts.

I just trimmed 3/16" off one side of my slide to make it easier to use given my carpeted walls. Very easy. Circular saw and a guide. The front wood piece unscrews easily, but there is a piece of angle aluminum on the front. The screws go through that piece. You might be better off trimming off the back although that would change the angled corner section slightly. You might need to adjust that as well or not. The bed slide itself is very easy to cut. Just messy saw dust. Good luck.

 

[RealRigsRattle]

Trying to finalize my battery buy list, but want a sanity/safety check.

I want to run a Renogy 50a DC-DC charger in the bed. That’s a 20 foot run for the positive and ground each, so 40 feet total circuit length.

Renogy claims 6 AWG is adequate for this per their manual IF I’m reading right.

Does this seem right? Blue Sea systems says I should be running 2 AWG, but the component can only accept 4 AWG wires max.

 

[K9LTW]

Trying to finalize my battery buy list, but want a sanity/safety check.

I want to run a Renogy 50a DC-DC charger in the bed. That’s a 20 foot run for the positive and ground each, so 40 feet total circuit length.

Renogy claims 6 AWG is adequate for this per their manual IF I’m reading right.

Does this seem right? Blue Sea systems says I should be running 2 AWG, but the component can only accept 4 AWG wires max.

I’m running 6AWG welding wire (highly recommend as it’s far more pliable than solid core) from the battery to the front of the bed of my RAM 2500. That’s for a 30A REDARC system. 6 is, likely, fine but if your lugs will accept 4AWG, then use it for 50A. $89 for 25’ of both red and black on Amazon. It’s hardly more than 6AWG but with a greater safety and performance margin.

Your ground does not need to go back to the battery (and shouldn’t be hooked to the negative terminal). The shortest wire possible to a chassis ground is far better.


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[RealRigsRattle]

I’m running 6AWG welding wire (highly recommend as it’s far more pliable than solid core) from the battery to the front of the bed of my RAM 2500. That’s for a 30A REDARC system. 6 is, likely, fine but if your lugs will accept 4AWG, then use it for 50A. $89 for 25’ of both red and black on Amazon. It’s hardly more than 6AWG but with a greater safety and performance margin.

Your ground does not need to go back to the battery (and shouldn’t be hooked to the negative terminal). The shortest wire possible to a chassis ground is far better.


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Thank you for clarifying! I was leaning towards 4 AWG and was thinking that I should ground closer to the DC-DC charger in the bed.

I am looking at tinned marine wire for the best possible element resistance.

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

The rest of the world is metric, including for wire conductors, so it makes sense.
This is a useful tool.
VOTLAGE DROP = [cable length (in metres) X current (in amps) X 0.0164] divided by cable cross-section in mm.sq

Of course, it is worth understanding why you would consider a DC-DC charger.
They are excellent devices for correcting the losses of voltage due to long cable runs with smaller than optimum cable sizes.
If you can use cable large enough to keep voltage drop under control, why would you need a DC-DC charger?
Don't forget that as the current decreases, so does the voltage drop.
I don't use a DC-DC charger.
I charge my house battery directly from the alternator and have done so for decades, both with AGM batteries and now with LiFePO4.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[K9LTW]

The rest of the world is metric, including for wire conductors, so it makes sense.
This is a useful tool.
VOTLAGE DROP = [cable length (in metres) X current (in amps) X 0.0164] divided by cable cross-section in mm.sq

Of course, it is worth understanding why you would consider a DC-DC charger.
They are excellent devices for correcting the losses of voltage due to long cable runs with smaller than optimum cable sizes.
If you can use cable large enough to keep voltage drop under control, why would you need a DC-DC charger?
Don't forget that as the current decreases, so does the voltage drop.
I don't use a DC-DC charger.
I charge my house battery directly from the alternator and have done so for decades, both with AGM batteries and now with LiFePO4.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

What are you using to control the charging profile for a Li battery? So you’re just running a straight wire from the alternator to both your starter battery and another to a LiFePO4? Are you relying on the battery’s BMS to charge it properly? Lithium batteries have far lower resistance resulting in a much higher current draw…left unchecked that’s, likely, going to shorten the lifespan of your alternator. I’d never advocate for that, but if it works for you


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[MR E30]

Trying to finalize my battery buy list, but want a sanity/safety check.

I want to run a Renogy 50a DC-DC charger in the bed. That’s a 20 foot run for the positive and ground each, so 40 feet total circuit length.

Renogy claims 6 AWG is adequate for this per their manual IF I’m reading right.

Does this seem right? Blue Sea systems says I should be running 2 AWG, but the component can only accept 4 AWG wires max.

I run this same setup, and I went with 4AWG.

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

What are you using to control the charging profile for a Li battery?

Nothing. The alternator output voltage is about perfect for Li.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[RealRigsRattle]

I run this same setup, and I went with 4AWG.

Same distance as well? About 20ft run?