Rango.....1942 Willys MB

[AmericaOverland]

I found out that Mahindra(india) still makes the CJ3b, some with diesels too! All under license, and just like the royal enfields they just never bothered to change anything. Kinda cool.

I believe you're talking about the Mahindra Thar, or the MM540's descendent. Check out their web site. I'm looking it over now.

http://www.mahindrathar.com/

 

[Metcalf]

Well, still suck in sheetmetal hell. I probably have another 2-3 nights on the other rear tub before its all done. Those things take forever! I did make these tonight after work since a co-worker had to use one of the mills after hours. It good to have these finished for now....

These are a spacer/adapter for the rear D44 full float conversion They let you use a regular off the shelf front spindle on the rear. You do NOT have to turn the spindle down to fit in the bearing pocket on the D44 with these. They also make the rear axle 3" wider to match the D30 narrow track front.

I will probably be running a set of Yukon Dana 30 spindles that have the larger bore for a 30 spline outer. I hope this will let me pass a 30 spline flanged floater axle through the spindle. I am going try and get a set of flanged rear axles made. This should make the rear axle like a mini-version of your standard D60 3/4 ton full floater. I hope running flanged floater axles in the rear should be the strongest D44 full float possible.

In the future a bit I plan on building a high pinion D44 housing with D50 gears in it. I will be able to use all the floater parts I think....and just eliminate the spacers and make my own axle ends....

 

[lstzephyr]

I believe you're talking about the Mahindra Thar, or the MM540's descendent. Check out their web site. I'm looking it over now.

http://www.mahindrathar.com/

Maybe. The article i read was pretty old so they may have changed it by now. The mitsubish J54 is actually available around the USA by importers, seems like about 10k, which isn't too bad. Personally though I would probably get a battered flat fender, and do what metcalf is doing.

Metcalf- Ya lost me on that d44 stuff. Does that bracket replace the bearing cup? How does the front spindle fit and remain fullfloat? Maybe I'm just thinking all bassackards on it.

 

[jeepdreamer]

Once you Full Float it the only improvements would be thicker tubes and a HD diff cover.

 

[reece146]

Once you Full Float it the only improvements would be thicker tubes and a HD diff cover.

Agree, take the time to truss/strengthen the axle housing while you have it apart now. I didn't bother when I did the full float conversion on my rear axle and I'm not sure when I'm going to get around to it... should have done it while it was all apart. Would have only been a few more hours but now it seems like a big job.

 

[Metcalf]

Metcalf- Ya lost me on that d44 stuff. Does that bracket replace the bearing cup? How does the front spindle fit and remain fullfloat? Maybe I'm just thinking all bassackards on it.

On the early CJ style D44 rear with the 2pc axle the bolt pattern on the axle flange is the same as a front spindle. The only problem is that you have to turn the step on the back of the spindle down to 2.875" to fit in the bearing pocket.

The spacer I designed fits between the factory axle flange and a factory spindle but has the proper 2.875" step on the back and a factory sized pocket on the front. This let you use an unmodified spindle in the rear for a full float conversion.

Since my D30 front is wider than the early factory D44 rear I added some width in this spacer. Now the front and rear axles are the same width ( 53-54" wide ), depending on brakes.

I have thought about trussing the axle, but I just don't know if it would be easy. I could go under the axle and lose some ground clearance. I can't really go over the axle tube since the tube will basically be touching the frame on compression. The truss would get in the way. My only real option I to go behind the axle tube over the diff cover. I have thought about it....but I am still on the fence. I only have so much time you know

I think this housing will be fairly temporary also. I want to find a F100 high pinion D44 front ( an early one ) and chop the knuckles off. Then weld on some full float spindle adapters. The offset and length of the ford housing in the rear works out well in the flat fender I think. I can then install a set of the the larger Dana 50 ring and pinion gears. They go down to 5.38 too. Then I will be able to swap all my other stuff over to the new housing.......full float outers, brakes, shafts, etc.

 

[reece146]

For a truss I was thinking about cutting some box section such that it is an upside down U with the legs being something like 0.5" - 0.75" tall and running that across the top of the tubes and build it up a bit into the differential housing itself.

It isn't a lot of extra structural/area inertia but the extra material will help somewhat. With a full float axle housing the housing itself needs all the help it can get. In my case I started with a Scout II rear Dana 44 so my tube diameter and wall thickness sucks. I kinda wish I built one of the ChryCo 8.25s lying around here. They have a much stronger housing.

Or you could do an internal sleeve and lots of rosette welds from the tube.

Btw, don't make your rear axle WMS exactly match the front axle. Make it ~ 1+ inch shorter for better handling and a tighter turning radius. If your front axle ends up around 56" I'd shoot for ~54.5" in the rear if it is not a big deal to juggle brake rotor and your adapter thickness.

 

[Metcalf]

The rear will be slighty narrower than the front, but not much.....less than 1" difference. I hate that GM front/rear WMS difference...same goes for my Dodge.

I like having REALLY close to the same track width front and rear. I think it allows the rear tires to track better in certain situations....like deep snow.

Factory the jeep was less than 1" difference from to rear. I will keep it close to that or 'better'.

I can't run a truss on the top that would be very effective since the axle tubes will be VERY close to touching the frame rail during full compression.

I will probably be going to a high pinion rear using the ford housing. They use 2.75" dia tubes that are 1/2" thick I think....that should be strong enough. I just hope there is enough width in the stock front housing to just chop the knuckles off and weld on some spindle adapters. I don't want to have to retube the housing at all.

 

[merlin44]

I like the adapters you have. I turned a similar set of them for my D44 rear Waggy axle. Main difference is, mine have a counterbore on the back to slide over the tube after the old bearing end was cut off. Also, have a shoulder for a seal inside to seal on the axle shaft. These were made to fit Blazer/Waggy spindles and hubs with lockouts.

I will try to get a picture of it.

I've been told by some that the housing will bend, because it was never meant to be used as a full floater, but, really, these Jeeps (mine's a 45 MB) are so light, I don't see it bending. What do you think?

Love the build, can't wait to see it finished (but probably not as much as you).

Billy

 

[lstzephyr]

Ah cool, that makes sense. I think that may be the exact same question I asked you when you first told me about it.

Random tangent: How long is the tub? Specifically I'm curious about the dimensions from back of the windshield to the back of the tub. How wide is one of these willys?

 

[Metcalf]

I like the adapters you have. I turned a similar set of them for my D44 rear Waggy axle. Main difference is, mine have a counterbore on the back to slide over the tube after the old bearing end was cut off. Also, have a shoulder for a seal inside to seal on the axle shaft. These were made to fit Blazer/Waggy spindles and hubs with lockouts.

I will try to get a picture of it.

I've been told by some that the housing will bend, because it was never meant to be used as a full floater, but, really, these Jeeps (mine's a 45 MB) are so light, I don't see it bending. What do you think?

Love the build, can't wait to see it finished (but probably not as much as you).

Billy

That sounds cool, pretty much exactly what I have planned when I do a high pinion rear.

The full float should be fine. These jeeps are light and a factory D60 rear axle tube isn't THAT thick or large diameter.

I can't wait to get it done....EJS is going to be SOOOO fun this year!

 

[Metcalf]

Ah cool, that makes sense. I think that may be the exact same question I asked you when you first told me about it.

Random tangent: How long is the tub? Specifically I'm curious about the dimensions from back of the windshield to the back of the tub. How wide is one of these willys?

I want to say the tub is 79" from the front of the cowl to the tailgate. That is just off the top of my head though. The tub is 57" wide if I remember right?

They are SMALL. Its like a big go cart. Or a two seat motorcycle with 4 tires.

 

[jeepdreamer]

What they are...

They are SMALL. Its like a big go cart. Or a two seat motorcycle with 4 tires.

And to think people pay upwards of 10 grand for a dumb side by side rhino thingy...when they could have one of these!

 

[Metcalf]

And to think people pay upwards of 10 grand for a dumb side by side rhino thingy...when they could have one of these!

If I have done the math right, my Willys will be SHORTER than a stock Polaris RZR :Wow1:

I need to find one to take a picture next to after I get this project finished.

 

[mutt550]

Looking good!!!! Haven't been on in a few days and wanted to see your progress. Looking forward to your axle builds. I haven't started on mine yet. Deer season got in the way.

I agree about the side by sides. We can buy and build one really nice willys for those prices..... and our's are street legal....or at least close enough to get by.

Keep up the amazing work!!!