Round 2!!!! A build thread
- Thread starter nely
- Start date
Well i dropped my tank off to be welded yesterday afternoon and it was ready that day but couldnt pick it up till today. Looks great!!! It was tig welded like i requested, and they used stainless steel rod. Ill have pics up tomorrow.
Ill be pressure testing it to make sure theres no leaks but from the looks, i think itll hold.
Im stoked!!!
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Ill be pressure testing it to make sure theres no leaks but from the looks, i think itll hold.
Im stoked!!!
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
And the pics ive been waiting to show. Just fitted them tonight.
My brand new 37 12.5 17 goodyear mtrs finally mounted and put on my van.
My clearences at ride height
My clearences at ride height with wheels turned.
No rubbing so far on the drive home tonight. Well it rubs at full turn due to my 4.75 back spacing on my rim. The dyna-beads in the tires used for balancing worked wonders. No vibration in my steering wheel.
Im gonna have to start putting the suspension thru some flexing and figure out where im gonna be trimming the fender and body panels.
And unfortunatly i modified my 96 tank and theres a difference between 96 & 97. Nothing that cant be overcomed but id really wanna keep it proper year and what not. But we will see when i go to fit it.
Ohh and im in SERIOUS need of front ball joints. There effed. Thats the next order of businesa so i dont prematurly wear out my tires.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
My brand new 37 12.5 17 goodyear mtrs finally mounted and put on my van.
My clearences at ride height
My clearences at ride height with wheels turned.
No rubbing so far on the drive home tonight. Well it rubs at full turn due to my 4.75 back spacing on my rim. The dyna-beads in the tires used for balancing worked wonders. No vibration in my steering wheel.
Im gonna have to start putting the suspension thru some flexing and figure out where im gonna be trimming the fender and body panels.
And unfortunatly i modified my 96 tank and theres a difference between 96 & 97. Nothing that cant be overcomed but id really wanna keep it proper year and what not. But we will see when i go to fit it.
Ohh and im in SERIOUS need of front ball joints. There effed. Thats the next order of businesa so i dont prematurly wear out my tires.
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Well not much has changed. Been busy with maintenance. Upon removal to replace the ball joints i noticed the hole for the steering tierod was wallowed out. So i decided to replace the knuckle. I then found out a new knuckle comes with balljoints. So i replaced both knuckles and the complete steering. Man it feels so nice and responsive now.
I did all this to make sure the vehicle was safe for a family trip to sequoia. The trip went well, besides the uncomfortable bench/bed i installed.
But the best part was the stop at the 4x practice course in gorman, ca...
Allthough i found out my lsd wasnt working so i kept getting stuck where i wanted to go. And i was throwing rocks and sand at the wife taking pictures.
But i did see how well the suspension flexed and what needs to be clearenced on the rear. Now, what to use for fender flares..... Hmmmmm
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
I did all this to make sure the vehicle was safe for a family trip to sequoia. The trip went well, besides the uncomfortable bench/bed i installed.
But the best part was the stop at the 4x practice course in gorman, ca...
Allthough i found out my lsd wasnt working so i kept getting stuck where i wanted to go. And i was throwing rocks and sand at the wife taking pictures.
But i did see how well the suspension flexed and what needs to be clearenced on the rear. Now, what to use for fender flares..... Hmmmmm
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
Wood Kutter
Observer
You guys do know about these, don't you? http://glassworksunlimited.com/foecvanfrfe.html
Yep. Ive wanted them. But i dunno how to get the rear flared to match the front.
And my problem is my rear tires hit the rear corner of the wheel arch when fully stuffed. My fronts where fine so far.
I gotta cut the wheel opening to allow more room. But how do i cover up the cut? I dont think the van flares that are sold will mount to a bigger wheel opening, and i know nothing about body work to be able to cut/fab to make the flares work.
So im trying to think of options.
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And my problem is my rear tires hit the rear corner of the wheel arch when fully stuffed. My fronts where fine so far.
I gotta cut the wheel opening to allow more room. But how do i cover up the cut? I dont think the van flares that are sold will mount to a bigger wheel opening, and i know nothing about body work to be able to cut/fab to make the flares work.
So im trying to think of options.
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RocKrawler
Supporting Sponsor
Gorilla Warflares from Wild Horses, indestructible, easy to install & really open up the front & rear wheel wells. I ran 37" MTR's on a 2" lift with my Bronco, sure they could be adapted over easy enough. Use a heat gun to form to body lines - its an option & cheaper than fiberglass
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/WH_Gorilla_Warflares_Rear/Bronco_Fender_Flares
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/WH_Gorilla_Warflares_Rear/Bronco_Fender_Flares
dsw4x4
Adventurer
I inquired about those flares and WH told me they are no longer in production, they were using a aussie company to build them and they were not reliable among other problems they had with those flares so they no longer sell them and they were haveing the molds shipped back to the states. That was probably 6months ago so somthing may have changed since then.
Derek
Derek
Wood Kutter
Observer
My buddy and I built a 74 Bronco a few years ago, and someone had previously cut the fenders out a few inches. Not unusual, except for the way they did it. They welded about a 3/4" piece of tubing on the inner edge of where they cut and rolled the edge out slightly. It looked almost factory like, they did a great job.
)
Well figured id bring this back into the lime-light with an update.
I sent out the spare transmission to have it torn down, gone thru and convert to 4x. Upon disassembly the tech noted my burned clutches and said it should be rebuilt with atleast the soft parts. Well thats not good enuff for me. So as of right now i have a box to drop off so the trans can be assembled.
I have the ultimate clutch rebuild for my e4od transmission, from racer x transmission. It uses upgraded alto red eagle clutch packs and 4 of the 6 clutch packs have more clutches and steels for more holding power. Also going in will be a transgo tugger trans reprogramming kit. Itll firm up my shifts so i hope itll feel better when i actually get on it and the turbos spooling to 30 psi. And itll allow me to manually shift the gears and itll hold and stay when i want it to. The main reason i also did it was it doubles the pressure to the low/reverse clutches so itll hold better when i need it to. Like in 4low and im stuck. If i ever get to that point.
Another delimma is the nv271 i have. Since im essentially using the older transmission with the newer t-case ive found myself guessing and hoping everything works together. Like the 4r100 output in the e4od.
Then i had the idea to use the ford np 205, since its bombproof, gear driven, and i can use my vss so no need for the special speedometer convertor. But with a 1.96 low its not very, well, low in 4x.
That leads me to the bw1356. It has a lower 4x low than the 205, has a speedogear for use with my vss, but its chain. Guess itll do. If i need to, an atlas t-case is an option but probably way overkill.
Anyone want a freshly rebuilt nv271 for there 4x conversion? Haha.
Thats about it. Just workin my *** off in the sidejob department to get finished.
I sent out the spare transmission to have it torn down, gone thru and convert to 4x. Upon disassembly the tech noted my burned clutches and said it should be rebuilt with atleast the soft parts. Well thats not good enuff for me. So as of right now i have a box to drop off so the trans can be assembled.
I have the ultimate clutch rebuild for my e4od transmission, from racer x transmission. It uses upgraded alto red eagle clutch packs and 4 of the 6 clutch packs have more clutches and steels for more holding power. Also going in will be a transgo tugger trans reprogramming kit. Itll firm up my shifts so i hope itll feel better when i actually get on it and the turbos spooling to 30 psi. And itll allow me to manually shift the gears and itll hold and stay when i want it to. The main reason i also did it was it doubles the pressure to the low/reverse clutches so itll hold better when i need it to. Like in 4low and im stuck. If i ever get to that point.
Another delimma is the nv271 i have. Since im essentially using the older transmission with the newer t-case ive found myself guessing and hoping everything works together. Like the 4r100 output in the e4od.
Then i had the idea to use the ford np 205, since its bombproof, gear driven, and i can use my vss so no need for the special speedometer convertor. But with a 1.96 low its not very, well, low in 4x.
That leads me to the bw1356. It has a lower 4x low than the 205, has a speedogear for use with my vss, but its chain. Guess itll do. If i need to, an atlas t-case is an option but probably way overkill.
Anyone want a freshly rebuilt nv271 for there 4x conversion? Haha.
Thats about it. Just workin my *** off in the sidejob department to get finished.
I just went and picked this thing up. PML transmission pan. 3.5 quarts over stock on a 2wd pan. Just need to tap for the trans temp sensor. I also decided to paint it semi gloss black. The aluminum was very porous and figured itll attract dirt very quickly.
I have a billet triple disc torque convertor to throw in with the transmission and 6.0l truck transmission cooler. The thing is huge!!!
I ordered the ford factory match trans temp gauge and its on the way aswell.
If it all works out, ill be 4x in the beginning of december, FINALLY!!!
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