Ruller's M101 Build

[ShearPin]

Nice find - check out truck-lite.com for more LED options. The photo is of my brothers 101 trailer but they use identical lights. They are completely sealed LEDS and come with new Mil spec buckets....

Henry
www.4x4freedom.com

 

[Desertdude]

If I have correctly installed the hubs, should there be a little play? I noticed that if you grab the drum (or wheel) you can get a bit of lateral movement. Is this normal? How much lateral movement should there be?

none really - should be a nice tight fit - tighten the nut until its tight then back off 1/4 turn or until the cotter pin fits.

 

[Martyn]

If I have correctly installed the hubs, should there be a little play? I noticed that if you grab the drum (or wheel) you can get a bit of lateral movement. Is this normal? How much lateral movement should there be?

Desert Dude is correct there should be no movement felt after the hub is reassembled. The difficult part of this is reaching the point of no movement at it's first appearance. You get the same "no movement" if the castle nut is over tightened, you are somewhere between "first" no movement and over tightening to the point at which the hub will not rotate.

If you read our hub maintenance article you'll get a good idea of how to adjust the hub "just right". http://www.atreport.com/bearing&hub.html

 

[nruller]

Nice find - check out truck-lite.com for more LED options. The photo is of my brothers 101 trailer but they use identical lights. They are completely sealed LEDS and come with new Mil spec buckets....

Henry
www.4x4freedom.com

They look good. Do you know the price and or retailer?

 

[Desertdude]

If I have correctly installed the hubs, should there be a little play? I noticed that if you grab the drum (or wheel) you can get a bit of lateral movement. Is this normal? How much lateral movement should there be?

I also like to test the looseness with the tire/wheel on

 

[Willman]

If you read our hub maintenance article you'll get a good idea of how to adjust the hub "just right". http://www.atreport.com/bearing&hub.html

Great infor. guys!

Thanks for sharing!

 

[nruller]

So I ordered my LED lights for the trailer. I decided to go with surface mount in order to minimize the cutting of the trailer. I picked up 2 6 inch oval LED STT, 4 1x2.5" markers, and a fairly rugged License light. All are LED with colored diodes and clear lenses. I also bought the chrome bezels which I will paint OD.

 

[nruller]

So I have made some progress... Body and underside are refinished, new 235/85R16 tires on some steelies, new hubs, LED lights are underway...

 

[Desertdude]

Very clean... looking good

Are you concerned about hitting the LEDs ?

 

[nruller]

Very clean... looking good

Are you concerned about hitting the LEDs ?

Thanks. I wasn't sure where I wanted to put the lights. I figured that keeping them up will avoid any concerns over water penetrating them during a water crossing. I bought them online and when I finally got them, I realized they were a bit bigger than planned. By the time I snapped the bezel on, it limited the locations.

 

[Desertdude]

They look factory. I would like to get a few under trailer lights just for mood.

I know just how much work it is to clean and prime the outside. It came out great!

 

[nruller]

Lid

I am looking for a little help on my lid. I am doing the identical layout as BX and Willman's. My question is regarding the rack. I would like to make a rack like Desertdude's out of square tubing to allow my future RTT to stay off the sheet metal. I was think that 8 - 10" would allow me some room underneath if I need to strap any additional gear to it. Would two cross members or rails work if I were to place them 18" in from each end of the trailer? Do I need three? I will do a large RTT eventually, if not the eeziawn 2200...

 

[Martyn]

I am looking for a little help on my lid. I am doing the identical layout as BX and Willman's. My question is regarding the rack. I would like to make a rack like Desertdude's out of square tubing to allow my future RTT to stay off the sheet metal. I was think that 8 - 10" would allow me some room underneath if I need to strap any additional gear to it. Would two cross members or rails work if I were to place them 18" in from each end of the trailer? Do I need three? I will do a large RTT eventually, if not the eeziawn 2200...

You will need 3 cross bars to support most RTT, especially the 1800. If you want to do a 2200 you may need to build additional supports for the overhang.

We use the Thule track and rack system. It attaches to the lid using rivenuts that have an O ring on them to seal against moisture. If that type of system appeals to you I could check and see if we have any of the older style SURCO track and rack systems in the warehouse. Or if we have extra Thule parts.

 

[Willman]

Ditto on the three cross bars.

Your trailer is looking great!

Love the lighting!.......That 235 looks at home under those fenders!

Keep up the good work!

:jumping:

 

[nruller]

You will need 3 cross bars to support most RTT, especially the 1800. If you want to do a 2200 you may need to build additional supports for the overhang.

We use the Thule track and rack system. It attaches to the lid using rivenuts that have an O ring on them to seal against moisture. If that type of system appeals to you I could check and see if we have any of the older style SURCO track and rack systems in the warehouse. Or if we have extra Thule parts.

Thanks for the offer! I will let you know about the Thule parts.