JCMatthews
Tour Guide
Sorry to hear about your alignment problem. I lifted the front 2" using bilstein 5100s, and I have had no problem at all with the alignment.
seanpistol's 01 Tundra
- Thread starter seanpistol
- Start date
seanpistol
Explorer
My alignment is excellent as it tracks straight and true. My only issue is that my cams for adjusting caster are seized, so I'm stuck at 1.5 degrees of positive caster. With more caster I think I'd be able to get the 35s away from the taper on the frame completely, but since I only rub at completely full lock it's not worth it to me to change them out at the moment.
seanpistol
Explorer
I need to figure out how to wire the WRX seat heaters into the stock Tundra center console switches.
Here's what I have coming out of the 2008 WRX seats -
And here is the bottom of the Tundra center console seat heater switches -
Here's what I have coming out of the 2008 WRX seats -
And here is the bottom of the Tundra center console seat heater switches -
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Looking at your OEM Tundra switches, they look like a DPDT 6 PIN. Its pretty much power in, power out, common, ground and LED. They have two modes, low and hi, hence why you have 6 pin instead of 3.
http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth_new/ELECTRONICS/pdf/switches_demystified_assembly.pdf
Looking at a 08 WRX switch... I am confused. I used to have a 09 WRX. Great car.
Do you have a white and a blue coming from each seat or is that drivers and passenger?
If so, my guess would be on the Tundra, is that the seats have 1 coil and the switch will feather the power to allow for a low and high setting. On the WRX, you have two coils, 1 on will give you low, and both on will give you high. Just a guess, I don't have the energy to look up wiring diagrams now.
Here is a 08 WRX Seat Heat Switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-SUBARU...ash=item43f331e5e8:g:lAwAAOSw65FXq9T6&vxp=mtr
4 pin. Power In, Power Out Lo, Power Out Hi and Ground(LED)
If you have a multi meter, you can sort this out in about 10 minutes.
I have you have a power probe, you can sort it out in like 5 minutes.
http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth_new/ELECTRONICS/pdf/switches_demystified_assembly.pdf
Looking at a 08 WRX switch... I am confused. I used to have a 09 WRX. Great car.
Do you have a white and a blue coming from each seat or is that drivers and passenger?
If so, my guess would be on the Tundra, is that the seats have 1 coil and the switch will feather the power to allow for a low and high setting. On the WRX, you have two coils, 1 on will give you low, and both on will give you high. Just a guess, I don't have the energy to look up wiring diagrams now.
Here is a 08 WRX Seat Heat Switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-SUBARU...ash=item43f331e5e8:g:lAwAAOSw65FXq9T6&vxp=mtr
4 pin. Power In, Power Out Lo, Power Out Hi and Ground(LED)
If you have a multi meter, you can sort this out in about 10 minutes.
I have you have a power probe, you can sort it out in like 5 minutes.
Last edited:
seanpistol
Explorer
There are two harnesses on each WRX seat. I would guess one is for the seat heater and one for the seatbelt light or something like that.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
seanpistol
Explorer
Pulled the trigger on a new CVT Mt Bachelor with stargazer. Kind of annoying that's it's the same tent I just sold but green instead of tan, but it wouldn't be a rollercoaster any other way.
CVT offered 10% off and free shipping on their instagram.
Once again, CVT's customer service was awesome to deal with.
CVT offered 10% off and free shipping on their instagram.
Once again, CVT's customer service was awesome to deal with.
snowaddict91
Adventurer
I hear ya on the rollercoaster. We may have an opportunity to move back to CO when the wife is done with school in May and as a result may turn around and sell the Avion trailer we bought in August to resto-mod into a tiny home. I spent what felt like half the fall working on the dang thing and getting my truck into towing shape when I could have been biking (but the second half is fine since I'm keeping the truck either way)
What would life be without a little excitement!
What would life be without a little excitement!
seanpistol
Explorer
Well, I need help. I'm getting frustrated and have a Moab trip this upcoming weekend.
I tried to engage 4wd by pressing the 4hi button, and got the dreaded 4hi blink. It was not constant, but only when the 4hi button was depressed indicating that it did not engage. I used 4wd a month ago, use it at least once monthly and haven't had an issue in years since I found a cracked breather hose on the front actuator that allowed water intrusion.
When pressing 4hi, both my actuators are making noise like they're trying to work but I still have the 4hi blink and am stuck in 2wd. I pulled both actuators. The front looked great but the transfer case actuator had some corrosion and a cracked breather hose. I was sure this was the issue like I had before. I cleaned a little corrosion, regreased and re installed it.
4hi and 4lo instantly flashed, so I took the rear actuator off and moved the round gear to a more neutral position and reinstalled since I felt like I may have messed that up. The 4hi and 4lo flash went away. It still would not engage 4wd and 4hi blinked as it did before.
After work today I got to more troubleshooting and found this article on installing the transfer case actuator - http://www.yotatech.com/how-tos/a/toyota-tundra-how-to-replace-transfer-case-motor-actuator-414483
I knew I did this wrong, so I pulled it and the spring on the round gear under the plastic cover was under a ton of tension and spun the plastic cover around with it as soon as it was unbolted. I removed the metal part of the actuator and pushed the toothed shaft all the way forward to make sure it was in 2wd as per the article, and then installed the round gear, all the way rotated CCW up against the stop with the fingers in about the 3:00 position as the article says.
Now I suddenly have a flashing 4hi light that I did not have on my commute today. I changed the position of the round gear about 50x, and the blinking 4hi light did not go away. According to the article, this would mean the truck doesn't know it's in 2wd.
Now with the 4hi light on, pressing the 4hi button does not make the actuators make any noise as if they are trying to operate.
I jacked the entire truck, and had someone put it in gear and try pushing the 4hi button. Pushing the button did nothing, but I did notice that the front driveshaft is constantly spinning.
I am definitely not in 4wd because I have no binding in the front end.
It seems to me that the switches must be working since the actuators made noise when I tried to actuate them before I had the 4hi light constantly on. I have not troubleshot them yet, but will pick up a multimeter tonight.
Does it seems possible that since the front driveshaft is spinning, the transfer case actuator is engaged? I am not sure how it would be in 4wd since I am 100% certain that I pushed the toothed shaft all the way forward.
Could the front actuator be stuck?
Any ideas of what to troubleshoot?
I tried to engage 4wd by pressing the 4hi button, and got the dreaded 4hi blink. It was not constant, but only when the 4hi button was depressed indicating that it did not engage. I used 4wd a month ago, use it at least once monthly and haven't had an issue in years since I found a cracked breather hose on the front actuator that allowed water intrusion.
When pressing 4hi, both my actuators are making noise like they're trying to work but I still have the 4hi blink and am stuck in 2wd. I pulled both actuators. The front looked great but the transfer case actuator had some corrosion and a cracked breather hose. I was sure this was the issue like I had before. I cleaned a little corrosion, regreased and re installed it.
4hi and 4lo instantly flashed, so I took the rear actuator off and moved the round gear to a more neutral position and reinstalled since I felt like I may have messed that up. The 4hi and 4lo flash went away. It still would not engage 4wd and 4hi blinked as it did before.
After work today I got to more troubleshooting and found this article on installing the transfer case actuator - http://www.yotatech.com/how-tos/a/toyota-tundra-how-to-replace-transfer-case-motor-actuator-414483
I knew I did this wrong, so I pulled it and the spring on the round gear under the plastic cover was under a ton of tension and spun the plastic cover around with it as soon as it was unbolted. I removed the metal part of the actuator and pushed the toothed shaft all the way forward to make sure it was in 2wd as per the article, and then installed the round gear, all the way rotated CCW up against the stop with the fingers in about the 3:00 position as the article says.
Now I suddenly have a flashing 4hi light that I did not have on my commute today. I changed the position of the round gear about 50x, and the blinking 4hi light did not go away. According to the article, this would mean the truck doesn't know it's in 2wd.
Now with the 4hi light on, pressing the 4hi button does not make the actuators make any noise as if they are trying to operate.
I jacked the entire truck, and had someone put it in gear and try pushing the 4hi button. Pushing the button did nothing, but I did notice that the front driveshaft is constantly spinning.
I am definitely not in 4wd because I have no binding in the front end.
It seems to me that the switches must be working since the actuators made noise when I tried to actuate them before I had the 4hi light constantly on. I have not troubleshot them yet, but will pick up a multimeter tonight.
Does it seems possible that since the front driveshaft is spinning, the transfer case actuator is engaged? I am not sure how it would be in 4wd since I am 100% certain that I pushed the toothed shaft all the way forward.
Could the front actuator be stuck?
Any ideas of what to troubleshoot?
toyotech
Expedition Leader
Wish I could help. I don't know too much about it. Never really messed with them till rock therapy where I had a similar issue. I was stuck in 4hi. I had a cracked breather hose and when I pulled the actuator has corrosion. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it but it was timed all wrong. Since I finally got it out of 4wd and back in to 2wd. No lights on. I played with the linkage till I found 2wd by spinning the front drive shaft. I was able to spin it by hand telling me it's in 2wd. Than I reinstalled the actuator. It's been so long I would have to mess with yours to figure it out.
I would pull the actuator but plug it back in and try to press the buttons till it takes it back out and into 2wd no lights on. Than mess with the linkage till you find 2wd by checking and spinning the front drive shaft. Than reinstall. I'm wonder if your front actuator is messed up or has corrosion ??
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I would pull the actuator but plug it back in and try to press the buttons till it takes it back out and into 2wd no lights on. Than mess with the linkage till you find 2wd by checking and spinning the front drive shaft. Than reinstall. I'm wonder if your front actuator is messed up or has corrosion ??
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seanpistol
Explorer
Before I had got home from work today I had already said **** it, and was ready to take tomorrow off work and swap a manual t-case in and lock the front actuator. By the way, if anyone is interested in this, a manual J-shift case from a 96-99 4runner v6 auto SR5 has 23 splines like our t-cases do, and you just have to cut a hole in your floor and swap your speed sensor over. You can lock the front diff as done in this link, and with an open diff there is no binding if the transfer case is not engaged - http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
So, I crawled under the truck, grabbed the front driveshaft and turned it about a quarter turn until it locked and would no longer move. I pulled the t-case actuator again to have one more go at lining it up. I reinstalled it the same way I did yesterday, started the truck, and the flashing 4hi light was gone. Hit the 4hi button and BANG it aggressively slammed into 4x4. Took it down the road. 4hi works. 4lo works. It engages and disengages as it should.
I am thinking that the corroded contacts in the t-case actuator, caused by the cracked breather hose, were the root cause. As I said before, I had the same issue on my front actuator. Putting it back together correctly and getting the toothed shaft, round gear, and driveline in time was what gave me the issue.
So, I crawled under the truck, grabbed the front driveshaft and turned it about a quarter turn until it locked and would no longer move. I pulled the t-case actuator again to have one more go at lining it up. I reinstalled it the same way I did yesterday, started the truck, and the flashing 4hi light was gone. Hit the 4hi button and BANG it aggressively slammed into 4x4. Took it down the road. 4hi works. 4lo works. It engages and disengages as it should.
I am thinking that the corroded contacts in the t-case actuator, caused by the cracked breather hose, were the root cause. As I said before, I had the same issue on my front actuator. Putting it back together correctly and getting the toothed shaft, round gear, and driveline in time was what gave me the issue.
seanpistol
Explorer
Well I may have spoke too soon. I went in an out of 4hi and 4lo about 5 times, on pavement, and then parked the truck. All was good. Left my house an hour later and hit the 4hi button and 4hi and 4lo both start flashing.
seanpistol
Explorer
Did some more troubleshooting and I'm done with it. There are seven manual 4runner transfer cases within 30 miles of me.
r.kaldhusdal
New member
Bust out your favorite cutting tool!
seanpistol
Explorer
Ha! 12 mile drive to work this morning. Mile 11 lights went out. 4wd engages and disengages fine. For now.