Smittybilt Scout Trailer Reviews?
- Thread starter Tkhawk
- Start date
That's wonderful news! Also a couple weeks ago we took the trailer out on another camping trip, and tested out the new Scout trailer stove drawer we bought. We really like it. The new drawer comes with no drawer back, and the drawer side can be mounted either on the left or right side. We also modified the handle/latch (from our original drawer) to make more room for our stove by removing the latching mechanism and shortening the rod holding it, see pics.
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ebrabaek
Adventurer
That looks great.
Would you mind share a bit more info on your roasted bean pressure chamber device.......
ebrabaek
Adventurer
Ha..... I was trying to gauge if it was a steamer of an espresso maker that I was not aware of...
I am always in the market for a good mobile bean press, as I cant bring my Andreja Premium with me in the smitty....
ebrabaek
Adventurer
Got one of those for the road.
Gotta be a pressurized unit for the camping stove....
ebrabaek
Adventurer
Bought a 2x2x.188 square tube.
Then cut three pieces and prepped the frame.
Then trimmed ready for welding.
I started with the MIG, but I could not get the weld to flow into the galvanized OEM piece. It was the craziest thing ever. I have had trouble in the past with some Chinese alloys. Not sure why...really.... just not flowing. Sticks fine to the steel I just bought....but would simply not flow into the galvanized frame. Then tried the Hobart Stick. DC negative......positive...... both sides of the AC. Horrible.
Last resort was flux core wire feed...... that worked somewhat...... but it looked horrible.
Lots of grinding to do, but I am comfortable it will hold.
I thought about making the gusset a one piece and cut the two cross members, but got a bit nervous wrt the side load as per design so I stuck with this.
Then cut three pieces and prepped the frame.
Then trimmed ready for welding.
I started with the MIG, but I could not get the weld to flow into the galvanized OEM piece. It was the craziest thing ever. I have had trouble in the past with some Chinese alloys. Not sure why...really.... just not flowing. Sticks fine to the steel I just bought....but would simply not flow into the galvanized frame. Then tried the Hobart Stick. DC negative......positive...... both sides of the AC. Horrible.
Last resort was flux core wire feed...... that worked somewhat...... but it looked horrible.
Lots of grinding to do, but I am comfortable it will hold.
I thought about making the gusset a one piece and cut the two cross members, but got a bit nervous wrt the side load as per design so I stuck with this.
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Actually, if I recall correctly it was ebrabaek who found the stove and got his at Cabelas but when we went to order it was out of stock. So we bought ours from Amazon. I believe it's called the "base camp stove" but I may be mistaken. By "pull out runners" do you mean the sliders? If yes, the new stove did not come with any, it just came with some miscellaneous hardware. We needed to use the original sliders, stand/legs and locking latch that came with our trailer.
Same problem with mine, 3 trips and broken frame, nothing crazy, just some gravel with potholes, total trailer weight was 2500 Lbs with 270 on the tongue, not impressed
tankup
New member
Have you spoken with Smittybilt about the issue? What did they say?
When I called earlier this week, they said they are addressing this weak point on the trailer for all in-flight and future orders. Also read earlier on this thread they're shipping bolt-on kits to address it for existing owners.
I have opened a ticket, will see where it goes
zimm
Expedition Leader
they have all the stress at the two welded points, the weakest area, along with ************ lowest bid contract manufacture. adding a tube in the middle, whith another ************ weld isnt going to do much, as the stress riser still exists.
go back to the steel suppler and get a couple lengths of 3x3 angle, and run them along the bottom about 1/4 distance in on both sides max, bridging and attaching all of the cross members so you have an uninterrupted homogeneous frame section. I would bolt with backing plates, as i suspect the fractures and the inability to cleanly weld the material are related. i.e. ******** steel.
go back to the steel suppler and get a couple lengths of 3x3 angle, and run them along the bottom about 1/4 distance in on both sides max, bridging and attaching all of the cross members so you have an uninterrupted homogeneous frame section. I would bolt with backing plates, as i suspect the fractures and the inability to cleanly weld the material are related. i.e. ******** steel.
ebrabaek
Adventurer
I for one will focus more attention to fix the problem rather than gripe and moan. Granted I'l agree on the steel quality. A student of mine, who teaches welding at our college, thought the lag of flow into the galvanized steel could be due to low carbon. I found that flux welding woks the best. Even it makes a mess.
Regardless Mine is almost welded up, and I think I will add a 1/4 inch brace on the inside of the bend. Not really sure it needs it, but never the less, that's what I will do.
My brand new F150 was just recalled due to a fire hazard with the seat belt tensioner. Do I gripe, sell it or complain about that. No. I take it in Monday to get it fixed, as I love it, and intend to keep it. I then hook up the Smitty, and go camping.
Regardless Mine is almost welded up, and I think I will add a 1/4 inch brace on the inside of the bend. Not really sure it needs it, but never the less, that's what I will do.
My brand new F150 was just recalled due to a fire hazard with the seat belt tensioner. Do I gripe, sell it or complain about that. No. I take it in Monday to get it fixed, as I love it, and intend to keep it. I then hook up the Smitty, and go camping.