The Trooper/Blazer I call Blooper.

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
I ordered a TORQ locker for the front. I did research on all the "lunchbox" lockers. The TORQ wasn't the cheapest, but I think it's the best design. It doesn't use pins. Instead the two halves of the center section lock together. I thought it was also pretty cool that one of the owners of the company replied to my inquiries on social media with answers to my questions on a Monday evening. If I'm going to spend my money, I like to give it to good people!

Here I go farther into the black hole, but I can't help myself. I get sucked into "how do I make things better." I have to pull the carrier out now, but my inner axle tube seal was leaking on one side. It's silly to tear everything down and not change those I guess. That's what I'm using to justify this.

Back when I was driving this as a Blazer, I was going up a loose, rutted out hill that was steep. I kept getting stalled out because one front tire was spinning. Even with the posi in the rear. A guy waiting behind me asked if I had a rear locker, I said yes. He said put it in 2WD and send it. I never forget that because I learned a lot about 4WD that day. I'm already concerned about the capabilities this truck will have. The gearing is all wrong. Turbo 400, 205 and 3.73 gears on 37's. My crawl ratio is a pathetic 18 to 1. I really want a doubler, but the cost is just way too high. Maybe I should start a gofundme or something. Help a starving artist get through tough trails! A photo of me looking pathetic will be easy! :unsure:
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Some people may think I'm ruining a good Trooper, but that's not the case. This truck has had a hard life apparently. I pulled up more of the floor covering and sound deadening. WOW! In a few years this truck would have rusted from the inside out. The underside of the truck is spotless. The inside is covered in cancer. The factory sound deadening is a bad design. It's jute against the steel floor with thick rubberized coating on top. The jute holds moisture against the steel. No bueno. I hope the rear of the truck is not in the same shape.

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pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
The cargo area in the back of the truck had more widespread rust, but it was less severe. It was hot inside doing all that grinding.

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Here is my weapon of choice. If you are going to use a wire wheel, be sure to get the ones that are twisted or braided. The wheels with straight wires coming out jettison the wires into your body and they are useless in a matter of minutes. The braided ones last much longer and you are able to put some pressure into them. Make sure you have eye protection!!! It's also smart to wear a respirator because you have no idea what's in the dust you will be breathing.

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I am hoping that I can weld up some of the smaller perforations with my mig welder. When I was doing restoration, we used acetylene and welding rod. You had so much control of the heat with gas. Mig is not as precise. The last thing I want is a sea urchin of wire sticking out under the truck.

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Next I'll treat the metal with something. I've used a bunch of POR15 in the past, but that stuff's very expensive now. I have some Krud Buster stuff sitting on a shelf. I'll try that first. I still need to pull the front seats out and do the cab floor. The front corners of the wheel wells are going to need patch panels. I was thinking while I was at it, I could put in a dead pedal. I'll be running an auto trans so I only have 2 pedals.
 

Kingsize24

Well-known member
Use any cheap rust converter that dries to a paintable finish, then prime and seal. POR15 is an encapsulator not a converter anyway. I try not to encapsulate rust ever anyway.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
More grinding and cleaning today. I got a lot done, but I still need to pull the door panels and side panels then scrub the interior. The good news is I can just spray everything down with the hose. All the electronics have been removed. I'm going to have to take a couple days off. The slice I put in the palm of my hand got infected. I'm going to have to let it dry out and heal a little bit. Even with gloves on it got constantly irritated and I didn't take very good care of it. Having a high pain tolerance is not always a good thing.

I have everything I need to put the front diff together. New axle tube seals. The installation tool. The torq locker I ordered. New axle shafts and u-joints. New hub seals. Once I get that all done it will be back on 4 wheels. I also have the pitman arm and steering links out for fab and welding. One issue I need to address is the badly dented rocker on the passenger side. I am going to weld some 2x6 rectangular tubing to the rocker. It will act as a slider and also I was going to use it to mount the body to the chassis. I've had a spot weld gun for years and never used it. Now is my chance.

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pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
I'm learning a lot watching this scratch build from Mike Essa. Such a cool truck. I just wish I had a tenth of the skill Essa has. If you watch the other videos you will also see Brandon who I used to work with along with his brother Justin. Good people. Check it out. I'm going to be stealing Mike's ideas big time! :ROFLMAO:

 

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