VANdiana Jones sequel: The Legacy Continues

[patoz]

It's always the little things that kill you, isn't it?

 

[mk216v]

It's always the little things that kill you, isn't it?

Thankfully it wasn't too painful. And now I appreciate knowing more about the electrical layout, how the batteries are in parallel, etc etc, which I only vaguely understood before(read; I'm a very visual learner).

 

[mk216v]

Well that was dumb of me--just bead blasted a client's battery tray this am, then painted it. Not sure why I didn't think to bead blast my own before paint--too anxious to get back together I suppose. Hopefully the Rustoleum does it's job in the next 5-7 years to stop the rust from spreading(I'll for sure bead blast them then, then repaint again). The gauge on the boxes is pretty thick so I'm not concerned, plus we have no salt here. Just another lesson learned though; don't be in such a rush to get everything back together that you forget to take an extra few minutes and think "What other steps should I be taking in this process while I'm here?" <headbang>

 

[naterry]

Thankfully it wasn't too painful. And now I appreciate knowing more about the electrical layout, how the batteries are in series, etc etc, which I only vaguely understood before(read; I'm a very visual learner).

Probably a typo but worth the safety check. I'm sure you meant that the batteries are in "parrallel". 24v would be trouble.

 

[bknudtsen]

Yep. Parallel. No house battery on the van. Just 2 starter batteries to handle the huge draw from the glow plugs and the starter. These motors will run as long a 2 minutes on the batteries alone while warming up (no alternator) which puts a big load on them, and consequently the FICM, if the batteries are not fresh. Please keep an eye on your ScanGauge to make sure your FICM did not get damaged from low voltage supply.

 

[mk216v]

Probably a typo but worth the safety check. I'm sure you meant that the batteries are in "parrallel". 24v would be trouble.

Thanks for the correction Nate. I meant parallel. Used to the 24V "series" with the G's.

Yep. Parallel. No house battery on the van. Just 2 starter batteries to handle the huge draw from the glow plugs and the starter. These motors will run as long a 2 minutes on the batteries alone while warming up (no alternator) which puts a big load on them, and consequently the FICM, if the batteries are not fresh. Please keep an eye on your ScanGauge to make sure your FICM did not get damaged from low voltage supply.

FICM is at 47.5-48.0 so we're still good. Thanks for checking on the baby Brad.


Which brings up a question I've been wondering and honestly might as well ask now; The OEM "hot"/positive quick-connect post is in the right rear near the tire. With the batteries in parallel, I assume a smart battery charger like the CTEK 7002 I use charges both batteries just as well, vs charging the rear-most battery more than the front-most battery? I just don't want to be playing favorites.

 

[patoz]

Which brings up a question I've been wondering and honestly might as well ask now; The OEM "hot"/positive quick-connect post is in the right rear near the tire. With the batteries in parallel, I assume a smart battery charger like the CTEK 3300 I use charges both batteries just as well, vs charging the rear-most battery more than the front-most battery? I just don't want to be playing favorites.

I've got some information on that, but I'll have to find it for you.

Basically, charging batteries in parallel is not good unless they are identical brands, types, age, and state of charge. If I remember what I read correctly, it won't damage them if the charge levels are different, but it's very inefficient and can take much longer. If you start with two new identical batteries, and they are wired in parallel directly vs. through a 'Batt 1/Batt 2/Both' switch, then you're probably OK. It's the ones who mix and match batteries or have a Bank 1 and Bank 2 that they operate independently, or combine at times, that causes problems. In that case a multi-bank charger should be used because it can send the appropriate charge current to each individual battery. This is especially important when it comes to the 'Float' stage.

Neither of these is the article I'm looking for, but you may find these useful anyway:

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery

http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

 

[mhiscox]

Here's your information on the right way to wire them. You have your choice of workable, better and anal.

http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

The Sprinter batteries you just put in for me are wired in "workable." Doing it the perfect way is more trouble (and expense) than I believe you'd ever make up with the marginal gains in increased life and performance.

However, what Patoz said about having identical batteries is pretty important if you're changing the bank from one charger. Fortunately, you qualify.

 

[mk216v]

Thanks guys. Glad I "qualify" with these 2 new Interstates.

So the OEM Ford setup is similar to Method1, save for the negative cable going north(opposite of the positive cable heading south).

"Finally, if you only have 2 batteries, then simply linking them together and taking the main feeds from diagonally opposite corners cannot be improved upon."
This could have worked if Ford wouldn't have put the battery boxes longitudinally in line with each other.

So, to my CTEK question; I should keep connecting the positive alligator clip to the rear-most positive quick-connect post, and the negative clip to the rear-most negative grounding point on frame? No other way to do it with the battery box covers up in there and bolted down.

 

[patoz]

So, to my CTEK question; I should keep connecting the positive alligator clip to the rear-most positive quick-connect post, and the negative clip to the rear-most negative grounding point on frame? No other way to do it with the battery box covers up in there and bolted down.

Ideally, they should go directly to the battery post themselves.

And finally, finally, we keep getting asked where the chargers should be connected to. The chargers should always be connected to the same points as the loads. Without exception.

http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

If figure #2 won't work for you, then I'd use figure #1, but with just two batteries of course. Then I would make up a 'charging harness' consisting of a positive and a negative lead which are the same length (possibly some twin lead wire from an old set of lightweight jumper cables), connect one end to the appropriate positive and negative battery terminals, and run the other end to a point that is accessible to connect your charger. Alligator clamps are inefficient at best due to the lack of surface contact, so I would get rid of them and replace them with a set of Anderson PowerPole Connectors to connect the charger to the harness.

BTW, the 7 amps that charger provides doesn't seem like much for two batteries that size. Are the batteries just used for starting or do you run camping items off of them also?

Edit: Looking at this video here, I see that charger already comes with a 'charging harness' like I was talking about making up. You would just need to extend the leads enough for your vehicle's battery locations.

 

[mk216v]

Thanks very much Pat. I'll work on this.

 

[mk216v]

Here's where I'm at currently for Take2 of the interior design. This is ver5 of Take2.





Bright pink(driver side) and yellow(pass side) are the rear of van (bright blue is driver side front).
Diamond plate box is Nat'l Luna fridge.
6 corrugated aluminum boxes are AluBox's.
Brown; wheelwells
Yellow; diesel
Red; Nat'l Luna PowerPack (I hope it fits due to its width!)
Black; OEM rear a/c unit
Blue; 2 Front Runner 5gal waters = 10gal
Light brown; PETT porta potti
Light yellow; Cleanwaste potti/shower tent
Bright pink; 2 Front Runner camp chairs
Light pink, light purple; Composite containers w/ lids
Teal, green; Composite containers w/ lids

No water tanks in this design, this is a camping rig design, not an RV design.

I'm not sure if I'd employ all the purple/pink containers(honestly may run out of stuff to put in them), but shows I could if I wanted.
The lower AluBox's may be on sliders for easier access to contents.
Then there would be shelves between the "layers" of AluBox as well as containers, so this would need to be taken into account(although the respective boxes/containers do all stack on themselves).

Everything is about 28" tall(bottom of windows from inside is ~26"H).
With a sleeping platform board @ 28"H in the center aisleway, it'd allow a 22"H sleeping platform when needed(yes, not very tall, but tall enough to stealth sleep).

What I like about this design is the modularity, I could add/subtract as needed, all components are removable. Everything would be secured to existing L-track.

Still working with it. Feel free to throw in your thoughts if you'd like.

 

[patoz]

Looking good!

:26_7_2:

 

[mk216v]

Looking good!

:26_7_2:

Thx Pat. It's a process, but a fun one.

 

[patoz]

You have this in your signature, and it pretty much says it all!

A vehicle's worth is not what you put into it, but what it put into you.