YAAC - Yet Another Ambulance Conversion

[dtruzinski]

Well I have officially started installing the parts. I am using the lower left side outer compartment for my batteries and major electrical components (inverter, mppt solar charge controller, DC2DC controller, and my distribution bus). Note the 2" insulation for everything below the frame. Above the frame is in the interior and that is all insulated as well


Next up was the left side buildout on the interior which starts with a frame over the battery box you see above (I am leaving that access hole to move airflow to the batteries (especially in the winter).



Notice in the pic below an air gap at the bottom of the refrigerator. There is a gap all around to keep it from overheating.


Ah the Isotherm Cruise 200 fits nicely in its new home


A nice piece of stainless trim attaches to the bottom of the refrigerator hiding the plywood base. Next up will be the framing of the kitchen counter and then the bed.

 

[billiebob]

This is one of the nicest Ambulance builds so far.
Well done.

 

[dtruzinski]

Took a detour and decided to cut a hole in the floor to reach the fuel tank so I can easily connect my Espar heater fuel source. I have the tank that sits aft of the rear axle ( I think it is 55 gallons). I assume that the forward connector and associated 2 lines are connected to the in-tank fuel pump (fuel in and return). There is a third fitting on this connector which could either be under fuel pump pressure or just a fuel pickup (see first pic below) Next to this likely pressurized line, there is another plastic access cap with no lines in it. Could this be the proper place to add a pickup tube.

Also there is a separate connector on the back of the tank that has a rubber cap over it (see second pic). I think this is some type of pressure relief system.

Has anyone connected a diesel appliance to one of these tanks? If so where is the best place to connect?

 

[cobro92]

Great build! I always feel like the hardest part of any Ambo build is the removal of the extra wiring and cabinetry. Once you get it down to the bare box it’s pretty easy because it’s just straight up and down walls.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[iggi]

Take a look at my build. I cut a hole in the floor and connected my diesel heater to the aux fuel port. (it's not under pressure). Good to know that the pickup for that line only goes down to about quarter tank.

Took a detour and decided to cut a hole in the floor to reach the fuel tank so I can easily connect my Espar heater fuel source. I have the tank that sits aft of the rear axle ( I think it is 55 gallons). I assume that the forward connector and associated 2 lines are connected to the in-tank fuel pump (fuel in and return). There is a third fitting on this connector which could either be under fuel pump pressure or just a fuel pickup (see first pic below) Next to this likely pressurized line, there is another plastic access cap with no lines in it. Could this be the

 

[dtruzinski]

Take a look at my build. I cut a hole in the floor and connected my diesel heater to the aux fuel port. (it's not under pressure). Good to know that the pickup for that line only goes down to about quarter tank.

@iggi Thanks for the help on this. I will connect to the aux fuel port, now that I know that it is not under fuel pump pressure. I appreciate the info.

 

[UjointoffroadCO]

Looking good, Dave! Just toss in my 2 cents on fuel pick up for the Esbar. Not sure if this applies to diesel or not, but on the gas esbar's I've done on transit's, if you use the factory 6mm pick up in the tank into the 2mm line of the ebsar, it creates major suction problems and easily loosing it's prime. I have just been cutting a hole in the sending units to mount the pick up that comes with the heater. Everything has to be just right on the install of these heaters or they will always have issues right when you need it most.

 

[dtruzinski]

@UjointoffroadCO Justin thanks for the feedback. I know these Espars are finicky. I have had 2 hydronic Espar heaters in past rigs. I will try it with the factory tube and if I have issues, I will get a new pickup (one did not come with my kit). Fortunately, the distance from the fuel tank to the heater is only about 4 feet. In past rigs I was over 10' between the fuel source and heater.

 

[dtruzinski]

Progress has been slow due to the weather. My garage is not tall enough for my ambo, so I have to do all of this work while it sits snow-covered in near-zero weather.


I have built the counter to hold the induction cooktop and hide a cassette toilet on 500 lb drawer slides. These slides lock in the open position which should minimize embarrassing situations where the toilet retracts without you.


And opposing that counter is the sink (adjacent to the refrigerator). Note that everything but the kitchen sink is here!


Lastly, I installed my batteries, the battery heaters connections, and the inverter!

 

[dtruzinski]

Hmmm..been a while since updating this thread so I will break this into multiple posts and catch you all up...current state preview: just dropped off with Justin at U-Joint CO!

Now back in time...Winter in MT is brutal...building an expo vehicle in said winter is even more brutal.



A note on tools. Buy some, then buy some more, then even more...specialty tools are the key to success (well that's what I convinced myself and my wife!)


Lesson learned: dust control and 80/20 alum shaving control are critical. Need to get a bigger shop vac!

 

[dtruzinski]

Design principles:

• use the best components available
• insulate, insulate, insulate
• everything gets bolted down in multiple places
• reuse the 3/4 laminated plywood for furring strips
• while there is copious amount of good copper wire from the demo, buy new anchor wire and have a plan for routing
• place as much solar on the roof as possible (leave a little space for a future fan)
• test the config before installing ceiling and walls (this is the current state...more on this later)
• have a plan for shower and ultimately a mini-split a/c but those will come later
• do it right the first time and if not, then do it over (there was a lot of the latter)
• frame it entirely with 80/20 extruded aluminum
• water fill to be behind a locked door
• fresh water and gray water drains to be operational at sub-zero temps; therefore, the valves must be in an insulated compartment

Once the batteries and inverter were installed, it was time to get heat. I installed the Espar M4D2L commercial heater.

Espar / Eberspaecher Airtronic M2-D4L

esparparts.com

The hot water heater was the Webasto 5.2 gallon and mounted vertically.

Isotherm 602021 Isotemp Slim Round Electric Water Heater - 5.3 Gal/20L Isotherm 602021 Isotemp Slim Round Electric Water Heater - 5.3 Gallons. Isotemp Stainless Steel Water Heaters are specifically designed for use in the demanding marine environment. They have recently become popular in conversion vans, slide-in truck campers, and small trailers. This popularity... pantherrvproducts.com

Test fitting the 20g fresh water tank. Notice r-20 to exterior wall. The round item at the top is the water heater. Both of these are under the bed platform

Next, I connected the fridge/sink side to the induction cooktop side with the bed and garage framing


Start to take shape. Toilet slide locks in and out...would not want that sliding back in at the wrong time

 

[dtruzinski]

The weather was warming up so it was 'solar time'

1095w Solar Panels and 1 MPPT Controllers

365w Rec Solar Panel

365w Rec Solar Panel

365w Rec Solar Panel 1 x Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 100/50 Solar Charge Controller 12/24VDC at 50 Amps

The rails were build from 1x3 alum square stock and I added aluminum angle stock to create a mounting surface. These rails were vhb taped onto the roof.



One panel view


Two panels installed


Alas all three are mounted.

 

[CaptainBuilt]

Nice. What else are you adding as far as electronics go?

 

[dtruzinski]

@CaptainBuilt The electronics are broken into three categories: DC, Inverted A/C, and Shore Power A/C.

On the DC side the big draw will be the Isotherm Cruise 2000 refrigerator/freezer. I also have a water pump, exterior lights, interior lights, and USB charging ports. I am going to wire for a ceiling vent/fan, but not install it until I am sure that it is needed.

The inverted circuit has 3 breakers. One for the induction cooktop and then two for duplex A/C outlet loads for charging laptops and camera batteries.

I have a separate set of breakers for shore power. There is a duplex receptacle in the compartment with the water heater and one on the opposite side of the bed. Both of those are accessible from the rear exterior doors and both are on dedicated circuits. I could install a mini-split A/C in the driver's side rear exterior compartment

A/C breakers and DC fuse panels



The electrical brains and Victron components. Thanks to Battleborn for the Victron supplies and of course the lithium batteries

 

[dtruzinski]

On the fresh and wastewater systems, the goal was to super insulate the tanks and all of the lines. Further, nothing is outside and exposed to the cold except the last few inches of drain lines. The waste lines will be wrapped in the final process. Pic of sink, faucet and wrapped hot/cold lines

.

Fresh water inlet is behind a locked exterior door. You will see that I put a valve on the vent line. This allows me to pressurize the water system to blow it out. I put a water level sight in that compartment which makes it easy to monitor the water level without those less than accurate gauges.