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I ran my Duratracs at 35 psig, I'm running the Cooper's at 38 psig to maintain the same factory capacities. Having said that, any time I bumped up to 38-40 psig on the Duratracs I could feel a difference in stiffness of ride and road feedback, which feels about the same as the Cooper's do at 38...

I ran up to 40" tires on my old DD (D60 front / 14-Bolt rear) and my opinion is 37's are about the largest I'd go in order to maintain a road friendly, full size rig. The 37" tire will get you anywhere a 40" will, may just take a little more work or a different approach on things. I would...

So far these are my favorite tire of all time. Super quiet and grip on the wet roads has been wonderful. They also pull really well up our steep, rough, gravel driveway. Can't wait to get them in some tougher terrain :sombrero:. I went from a 265/75R16 C-rated Duratrac to 235/85R16 E-rated...

10'x10'

Same reason I ran them on my old truck - space vs. required travel. As far as ride, I couldn't tell the difference between any of them, but I wasn't racing across the desert either. If remote reservoir isn't needed for a particular application (limited shock space, high speed application...

Thanks. That would kind of defeat the whole intent of building a capable vehicle that still retains as much of a stock appearance as possible. It would have been easier for me to fabricate a custom front bumper, but that wasn't the goal for me on this one. I had two Lightforce Striker HID's...

Thanks.

For me it was a mixed decision. I wanted to build up my truck, but keep it as light as possible. My rear bumper hung down and the separate receiver hitch hung even lower and was extremely heavy, so I built a rear bumper that was lighter, added tons of ground clearance, added a little bed side...

Both :sombrero:!

And it fits great behind the back seat of a 1st Gen Taco :sombrero:!

yes -

A few better pictures of the Cooper's -

Got my spare mounted up today. I took each of the holder arms off and bent the rear tabs flat, leaving the front at their factory position to keep the tire from moving forward toward the axle. Bolted angle from the rear tabs to factory holes in the frame to stiffen everything up. Tire fits...

One nice thing about manual locking hubs is that if you manage to break a CV joint, R&P, etc. out in the middle of nowhere you can unlock the front and still drive home.

I usually ran the factory doors, they used the same removable pins. The door harness has a plug behind the kick panels. I would unplug them and throw a rubber plug in the hole when running the tube doors.

It can be done ;) -

Ha, of course your not biased....you'd think your last name was cooper instead of mine :sombrero: But I must say, you were the one that swayed my decision the most. I used to get so bummed with KM2's on my Tundra, the 37's would measure 35-3/4".......

What were we talking about again :)?

I was just giving you crap, I knew where you were coming from. There's been a few statements made in this thread that's made me scratch my head as well...... Someday we'll make it back out your direction.....been trying for a few years now.

Oh....you just had to go there didn't ya....someday I'm going to follow you up the worst trail you can find with my little, skinny, girly tires :D