I just installed a new 5/16" x 100' Master Pull XD rope on my Warn 9.5xp last night, can't wait to try it out.....er.....or maybe I can :)! With that braided cover it doesn't even feel like a rope, by appearance & feel alone I'd say it's pretty tough stuff.......but if anybody can tear up nice...
Outback Park (Butler, PA) was a really cool OHV area, very tight trails though. If it wouldn't have been so muddy, it would have been a blast being able to actually pick lines and try different obstacles. Seemed like a lot of trails of varying difficulty.
Here's a flying squirrel that I trapped in my attic over the weekend and relocated to the end of our road, once it walked out of the trap it "flew" over to a downed limb about 5' from me and started eating snow, guess it was thirsty.
I'm not sure, but I think he may have flipped me off right...
There's nothing really "wrong" with any of the three, I've seen a lot of people using the exact same technique you're using and I would say it probably offers the most flexibility. I've just got used to using a shackle and it's comfortable for me personally, my rig's big and heavy and I feel...
Same here. And a lot of the "safety" hooks end up having such a small opening, due to their safety latch, that they wont properly fit over a tree saver......so you end up having to use the hook without the safety latch engaged.
Couldn't agree more, I've used mine on many occasions and can't imagine going back to using the factory style Hi-Lift jack. Since my truck has tube bumpers and sliders, it's a no-brainer for me.........
Thinks it's really personal preference. I've used both hooks and shackles and prefer shackles. As long as the hook is large enough to accommodate various size tree saver diameters they are fine, I just prefer the flexibility and security of a shackle for some reason.........
I took my primary battery (Optima blue top / deep cycle) out of my ski boat prior to selling it and put it in the Tundra, so it was in the boat starting the spring of '05 and has been in the Tundra since '06. It's been completely drained at least five times over the years from accidentally...
FYI - My National Luna's over-ride for "both" operation is timed automatically to terminate in 5 minutes if the user does not manually terminate before the 5 minutes is up.
Taken directly from NL's manual -
"When active, the “TIMER OVER-RIDE” light
will flash and will remain active...
I actually just reused my original ARB harness, I will have to take a look, but if I were to run my own I would probably use 12 ga......but I tend to over build stuff too :)!
I also have my Powertank plumbed into my locker air system to serve as a back-up, so that helps me justify it a little I suppose.........
I would love to have something similar to a York system, but I'm out of space under the hood and the alternatives are pretty pricey as well.
I vote for rattle can......since that's what a majority of my truck is now painted with. Quick, easy, & inexpensive to touch-up. Suppose it really depends on how you are using your rig too, mine gets beat up regularly, so powder coating isn't a viable option for me. When I originally did my...
Not sure if Fullerton is close to you, but I do know that Off Road Evolution does excellent work and can build anything you want, ask for Mel if you drop by.
http://www.offroadevolution.com/index.html
I just ordered a new Master Pull XD rope (5/16" x 100') today to replace my Viking 3/8" x 100' rope. The MP price was a little hard to swallow, but their 5/16" rope is rated a lot higher than Viking's 3/8" rope. My Warn 9.5xp came with a 5/16" x 100' cable, so the Viking is a little too tight...
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