khronus79
Adventurer
Bora adapters from the motorsport-tech website as stated above
http://www.motorsport-tech.com/special/truck/landrover_s?Next=16-30
Overland Journal Project Land Rover Discovery 4 (LR4)
- Thread starter Scott Brady
- Start date
Bora adapters from the motorsport-tech website as stated above
http://www.motorsport-tech.com/special/truck/landrover_s?Next=16-30
Ray Hyland
Expedition Leader
Sorry for the delay guys, Scott is in Africa with very little connectivity, and I have been working on final edit of the Fall issue this week. Yes we used Motorsports-tech, they are located close to Reno NV. They have a reputation for very good attention to detail but sometimes it can take them a while to process an order as they are a small shop.
I have used the Terrafirma's in the past as well, with no issues.
Ray Hyland
Expedition Leader
I would have to check but I am guessing around 10,000. The truck is en-route to CA for a photo-shoot right now, so I can't just run out and look.
grimbo
Explorer
Oh well you'll have to go on a trip, all in the name of research and customer service of course
Any Land Rover 18 inch wheel??
So last month I got a deal on a 2012 LR4... so of course this is my new favorite thread.
I want to put a set of 18" rims on the new ride for at least when I head for the desert. So my question is will any 18" land rover rim with a 5 x 120 bolt spacing work with a 1.25" spacer? If not what key things am I looking for? i.e. offset, etc etc.
I have found several deals on what might be 18" Disco II wheels but don't want to pull the trigger on something that will not work.
So last month I got a deal on a 2012 LR4... so of course this is my new favorite thread.
I want to put a set of 18" rims on the new ride for at least when I head for the desert. So my question is will any 18" land rover rim with a 5 x 120 bolt spacing work with a 1.25" spacer? If not what key things am I looking for? i.e. offset, etc etc.
I have found several deals on what might be 18" Disco II wheels but don't want to pull the trigger on something that will not work.
Ray Hyland
Expedition Leader
You need to look for 18" LR3 wheels.
Ray
Ray
LR Max
Local Oaf
They will work...once you install spacers and machine out the center.
But for all of that, you can just get 18" LR3 wheels.
khronus79
Adventurer
Since you're getting spacers, you can fit any bolt pattern and hub bore you want, you just have to specify the OEM bolt pattern + hub bore and the new bolt pattern you want, the size of the spacer will then depend on the width and offset of the new wheel.
KlausVanWinkle
Explorer
Was the LR4 in Santa Monica tonight around 8:40 PM? I saw a silver LR4 with your exact mods drive by the firestone on Lincoln blvd while I was dropping my 100 off for an alignment.
Scott Brady
Founder
The LR4 is currently in California for an Autoweek feature and a few other outlets. Sinuhe is taking good care of it while I am in Africa.
Image: Sinuhe Xavier
Image: Sinuhe Xavier
Jwestpro
Explorer
This week we modified the two tire clearance warts on the lr3 chassis. Removed/changed the nub behind each front wheel. Moved the hvac lines at the front of rear wheels as well as changed the body flange encroaching on the rear wheel clearance next to the hvac lines. For those of you who are not familiar with these tight spots, these are behind that bulge in the rear fender liner at about 10 o'clock when looking at driver side wheel.
My purpose for these changes:
1- winter, allow more room for 265/65x18 BFG + RUD 4x4 snow chains. Or I would enjoy a large studded tire for pure winter excursions northbound without worry about contact with body/frame/fender liners
2- summer, allow more for obvious larger tire that increases ground clearance, sidewall for lower air pressure
3- overall size for greater range of tire choices
4- plenty of clearance at all articulations.
5- larger tire on the cross country camping trips will help with fuel economy based on my experience thus far. Obviously there is a break point where too large starts to have negative effect as well as too aggressive a tread pattern. I plan to only use either the BFG AT or the GY Duratrac.
- When I tested the Duratrac 275/65x18, vehicle set to normal ride height, it would rub the rear wheel fender liner at the above noted tight spot even when hitting a dip on the highway at speed and loaded. I could hear it and of course see the scrapes upon inspection. The modifications will solve this problem. I did not want to rely on always driving in a lifted mode simply to avoid the rubbing. The lower ride height is safer and improves highway handling as well as requiring less air/pressure over the long periods of road trips which in turn runs the compressor a lot less. The above fix will be a treat going forward, especially with the 2nd fuel tank. Using ethanol FREE gas (pure gas), and nothing on my roof, my mpg was 18+ and I managed to only stop for fuel 4 times in over 3000 miles and never had a worry of where the next station might be. I was concerned that the 200 lbs of RS sliders would bring that back down but I do not think they will as it's less about the weight than it is aerodynamics I'm finding. The empty roof made the huge difference. I may try a Maggiolina on two cross bars next. The Hannibal rack plus ARB RTT is a major noise and mpg killer as well as being lots of weight up high. The LR3 almost felt nimble on the twisting mtn roads without all that. The RTT will find it's way onto an adventure trailer at some point that I can leave behind at a camp site set up while going off each day in the vehicle.
The current work list also includes the following:
1- revised on board air situation. Old arb compressor was located under right side similar to how factory compressor is under left side. Here it was exposed to elements and died an agonizing death. A new high output version has been located under the bonnet along with air outlet and on/off switch. The old location for switch, outlet, and pressure gauge have been retained functional at left rear cargo area side hatch as well as the reserve air tank I had mounted under right side of vehicle between sill and frame (also similar to how factory tank sits under left side. It is in fact a 2nd factory tank using the factory mounts) We used brass fittings for all connections.
2-we added a couple more 12v sockets that like my other extra 12v, run directly from the 2nd battery, an Odyssey 2150. All of the factory reading lamps and outboard dome lamps run from the 2nd battery as well as inset lamps in the upper cargo hatch door so that they illuminate the tail gate area for cooking, gear sorting, etc. 2, one on each corner of the hatch. My hatch has an interior release switch too
3-we flushed all the fluids including differentials and transfer case, transmission, etc.
4-installed new 2nd fuel tank pump and filter. extra pump will be part of emergency kit tucked away.
My purpose for these changes:
1- winter, allow more room for 265/65x18 BFG + RUD 4x4 snow chains. Or I would enjoy a large studded tire for pure winter excursions northbound without worry about contact with body/frame/fender liners
2- summer, allow more for obvious larger tire that increases ground clearance, sidewall for lower air pressure
3- overall size for greater range of tire choices
4- plenty of clearance at all articulations.
5- larger tire on the cross country camping trips will help with fuel economy based on my experience thus far. Obviously there is a break point where too large starts to have negative effect as well as too aggressive a tread pattern. I plan to only use either the BFG AT or the GY Duratrac.
- When I tested the Duratrac 275/65x18, vehicle set to normal ride height, it would rub the rear wheel fender liner at the above noted tight spot even when hitting a dip on the highway at speed and loaded. I could hear it and of course see the scrapes upon inspection. The modifications will solve this problem. I did not want to rely on always driving in a lifted mode simply to avoid the rubbing. The lower ride height is safer and improves highway handling as well as requiring less air/pressure over the long periods of road trips which in turn runs the compressor a lot less. The above fix will be a treat going forward, especially with the 2nd fuel tank. Using ethanol FREE gas (pure gas), and nothing on my roof, my mpg was 18+ and I managed to only stop for fuel 4 times in over 3000 miles and never had a worry of where the next station might be. I was concerned that the 200 lbs of RS sliders would bring that back down but I do not think they will as it's less about the weight than it is aerodynamics I'm finding. The empty roof made the huge difference. I may try a Maggiolina on two cross bars next. The Hannibal rack plus ARB RTT is a major noise and mpg killer as well as being lots of weight up high. The LR3 almost felt nimble on the twisting mtn roads without all that. The RTT will find it's way onto an adventure trailer at some point that I can leave behind at a camp site set up while going off each day in the vehicle.
The current work list also includes the following:
1- revised on board air situation. Old arb compressor was located under right side similar to how factory compressor is under left side. Here it was exposed to elements and died an agonizing death. A new high output version has been located under the bonnet along with air outlet and on/off switch. The old location for switch, outlet, and pressure gauge have been retained functional at left rear cargo area side hatch as well as the reserve air tank I had mounted under right side of vehicle between sill and frame (also similar to how factory tank sits under left side. It is in fact a 2nd factory tank using the factory mounts) We used brass fittings for all connections.
2-we added a couple more 12v sockets that like my other extra 12v, run directly from the 2nd battery, an Odyssey 2150. All of the factory reading lamps and outboard dome lamps run from the 2nd battery as well as inset lamps in the upper cargo hatch door so that they illuminate the tail gate area for cooking, gear sorting, etc. 2, one on each corner of the hatch. My hatch has an interior release switch too
3-we flushed all the fluids including differentials and transfer case, transmission, etc.
4-installed new 2nd fuel tank pump and filter. extra pump will be part of emergency kit tucked away.
Can you post some pics showing how you changed the nub and how you moved the hvac lines?