Gladiator Pop-Up Pass Through Camper Build

CoyoteThistle

Adventurer
Wow, super impressive sewing! I'm getting myself psyched up for sewing a third version of my pop-up and you're setting the bar high for the home sewing machine club. Sorry if I missed it, but what fabric did you go with?
 

The Artisan

Adventurer
Four layers of material and the vinyl window. My little Kenmore has found it’s match. I finished one window. Not too bad as long as you don’t look too close to the stitch spacing. I would drop down to a thinner window next time.View attachment 704579View attachment 704580View attachment 704581View attachment 704582View attachment 704583View attachment 704584View attachment 704585View attachment 704586View attachment 704587
Make the stitch length longer
Kevin
 

Mules

Well-known member
Make the stitch length longer
Kevin
I've got the stitch length as long as she will go. The problem is with a home machine, it can't pull this much material easily. It sounds strange but I'm controlling the stitch length by helping to pull the material through by hand. The pro sewing machines have a top dog that walks along with the bottom. My little Kenmore just has the bottom mechanism that pulls the material through. It took me a while to figure this out, as my stitching kept getting shorter, as I was sewing through thicker sections. My stitch spacing was a lot better with practice.

If you can borrow one, I'd recommend a pro sewing machine for this. I'm not sure all home home machines are beefy enough to handle this. Also, I'm using a #18 needle, made for canvas. The material is Topflight 9 from Sailrite, a marine grade canvas that is highly UV resistant. Don't buy cheap stuff off Amazon, go to Sailrite.com and get material made for the elements. Also I was tempted to use vinyl or a thicker insulated material, but I don't think my machine could have handled all the hems. I think I selected the strongest material, my machine could handle.

If I go cold camping, I'll probably sew an insulated inner removable liner.
 

The Artisan

Adventurer
I've got the stitch length as long as she will go. The problem is with a home machine, it can't pull this much material easily. It sounds strange but I'm controlling the stitch length by helping to pull the material through by hand. The pro sewing machines have a top dog that walks along with the bottom. My little Kenmore just has the bottom mechanism that pulls the material through. It took me a while to figure this out, as my stitching kept getting shorter, as I was sewing through thicker sections. My stitch spacing was a lot better with practice.

If you can borrow one, I'd recommend a pro sewing machine for this. I'm not sure all home home machines are beefy enough to handle this. Also, I'm using a #18 needle, made for canvas. The material is Topflight 9 from Sailrite, a marine grade canvas that is highly UV resistant. Don't buy cheap stuff off Amazon, go to Sailrite.com and get material made for the elements. Also I was tempted to use vinyl or a thicker insulated material, but I don't think my machine could have handled all the hems. I think I selected the strongest material, my machine could handle.

If I go cold camping, I'll probably sew an insulated inner removable liner.
This what I do. I have 4 walking foots. 1 double needle walking and post machine for 415 thread. You did well with the kenmore
Kevin
 

greg.potter

Adventurer
This is a great subject! What cushion, foam, or mattress should I get for the top bed? I would love to hear from our experienced audience.

I'm not sure what they use but the mattress in my James Baroud RTT is the most comfortable I have come across so far. Even my wife likes it, and she has a hard time finding mattresses that don't bother her hips. We were looking for a bed mattress fairly recently and through the the process noticed that the latex foams seem to offer a better combination of support and preventing pressure points than others.
 

Mules

Well-known member
New subject. What about using Jeep Hood Latches to hold the Roof Top Tent down? It would keep with the OEM look and match my hood latches. These even have locks. What do you think?

Screen Shot 2022-01-31 at 6.31.42 PM.pngScreen Shot 2022-01-31 at 6.31.53 PM.png
 
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ITTOG

Well-known member
I wanted to do that on my camper. The problem I discovered is they were not adjustable enough to account for my gasket flattening over time. If that isn't an issue for you then it would be great. I have 6 of them know with no use for them. Ugh!
 

cokeb

New member
I wanted to do that on my camper. The problem I discovered is they were not adjustable enough to account for my gasket flattening over time. If that isn't an issue for you then it would be great. I have 6 of them know with no use for them. Ugh!
when I built my wedge I was worried that the gasket would keep compressing over time on the latch end of the lid, I placed
1/8th inch aluminum shims between the lid and the body before attaching the hinges, then installed 1/8th inch cork strip beside my 1/4 inch thick gasket thus allowing the gasket to compress to half its relaxed thickness. just food for thought
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
I had thought of stops as well. I just am not to that point yet, so I haven't explored it yet.
 

Mules

Well-known member
This brings up another issue. What recommendations for gaskets are there? I'm looking for a 3/4" to 1" wide stick on gasket between the shells. Should I stick it to the top shell or the bottom? Currently I have two flat surfaces meeting with a 1" upper rain shield covering the outside. Should it be peal and stick or attached some other way? It also has to go around the curves.

IMG_5902.JPG
 

m-l_johnny

Active member
This brings up another issue. What recommendations for gaskets are there? I'm looking for a 3/4" to 1" wide stick on gasket between the shells. Should I stick it to the top shell or the bottom? Currently I have two flat surfaces meeting with a 1" upper rain shield covering the outside. Should it be peal and stick or attached some other way? It also has to go around the curves.

View attachment 705073
Maybe these folks have something that will work?

 

ITTOG

Well-known member
My plan was to use two seals. One on top and bottom. The first was to be on top and the second on the bottom.

I have reviewed a lot of images of commercially built popups and they usually only use a seal on the top. For the most part they use the tent and that one seal to maintain weather tight. I assume the logic with no seal on the bottom is it will trap rain. Makes sense to me so now I am thinking about not putting one on the bottom.

My seal is adhesive backed but if it doesn't stick, I am planning to use this as well.
 

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