OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!

Fergie

Expedition Leader
Spent the last four days out of the OVRLND, but didn't actually get that many pics of the rig all set up. Lemme tell you....camping at 10k feet, with temps in the low 30s overnight in the Sierras is damn enjoyable w a Propex. Lowest setting kept the camper at about 47-50, and a few clicks up ramped the temp to 75* in the AM....why did I wait so long for the propex?!?

Not a bad spot to camp.


We made some friends after a long hike in to catch some fish:





About a mile down the road from camp was a cabin w this pack team grazing freely near us; the owner came down to make sure the animals weren't bothering us, but apparently he packs all the California DFW scientists in to this particular stretch of water every summer so they can study the rarest of trout in the US. Sadly, we didn't catch those trout, but caught bows, cutt-bows, browns and a brook. Not what you want as a native trout enthusiast, but didn't get skunked.
 

MR E30

Well-known member
Spent the last four days out of the OVRLND, but didn't actually get that many pics of the rig all set up. Lemme tell you....camping at 10k feet, with temps in the low 30s overnight in the Sierras is damn enjoyable w a Propex. Lowest setting kept the camper at about 47-50, and a few clicks up ramped the temp to 75* in the AM....why did I wait so long for the propex?!?

Not a bad spot to camp.


We made some friends after a long hike in to catch some fish:





About a mile down the road from camp was a cabin w this pack team grazing freely near us; the owner came down to make sure the animals weren't bothering us, but apparently he packs all the California DFW scientists in to this particular stretch of water every summer so they can study the rarest of trout in the US. Sadly, we didn't catch those trout, but caught bows, cutt-bows, browns and a brook. Not what you want as a native trout enthusiast, but didn't get skunked.

Horses just seem to love truck campers!

Horsing Around by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Horsing Around by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr
 

aaaslayer

Active member
Next project for the camper, passenger side half barn door getting some 8020 bolted into the studs, and mounting my 10lb propane tank and tank mount, and some quick fists for my axe and shovel. 32 lbs for the tank setup, should be okay right? My biggest concern is 32 lbs or so, hanging out the back on a rough and rocky trail. Don't want the tank flying off and rupturing.
 

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montechie

Active member
Question, for those of you mounting tracks (L, 8020, etc) to the outside to carry heavier stuff like fuel, are you rivnutting the tracks onto the underlying studs or through-bolting? I rivnutted some interior L-track and it seems ultra solid, but haven't done this much and those tracks aren't holding much weight. Any problem using rivnuts instead of through bolts to the rear doors to hold the smaller propane bottles (5-10lbs)?
 

dstefan

Well-known member
Question, for those of you mounting tracks (L, 8020, etc) to the outside to carry heavier stuff like fuel, are you rivnutting the tracks onto the underlying studs or through-bolting? I rivnutted some interior L-track and it seems ultra solid, but haven't done this much and those tracks aren't holding much weight. Any problem using rivnuts instead of through bolts to the rear doors to hold the smaller propane bottles (5-10lbs)?
Not sure I’d trust Rivnuts on the rear doors. Unless you mean the corner studs, the framing in the doors isn’t as stout as the main wall frame. What I did was through bolt into 8020 VHB’d on the inside of the doors serving as a stiffener interior frame. I also used VHB on the external 8020 too.
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dstefan

Well-known member
Next project for the camper, passenger side half barn door getting some 8020 bolted into the studs, and mounting my 10lb propane tank and tank mount, and some quick fists for my axe and shovel. 32 lbs for the tank setup, should be okay right? My biggest concern is 32 lbs or so, hanging out the back on a rough and rocky trail. Don't want the tank flying off and rupturing.
I have carried 5 gallons of gas on my reinforced barn door, which also had about 10 lbs hanging on the inside with no problem, so ~40ish lbs. That door has the internal reinforced frame in the second picture above. It also has 3 hinges, but they’re really strong just with two. I personally think the bigger concern is the fact that the barn doors are only latched inside with one top latch. I actually did put a bottom inside latch on my door that goes into the tailgate and that firmed everything up. The locking latches armatures are cast something (zinc?) and not the strongest, and I did have the arm of my bottom locking latch distort a bit.

I did put a 10 lb propane mount on my two hinge door. The tank is alum, so with the mount and all it weighs about 25 lb. However, I haven’t used it offroad yet, but with the double inside latch on that door, it doesn’t worry me. The first picture above is the internal reinforcement I put on the barn door to support the propane mount and tank.
 

montechie

Active member
I have carried 5 gallons of gas on my reinforced barn door, which also had about 10 lbs hanging on the inside with no problem, so ~40ish lbs. That door has the internal reinforced frame in the second picture above. It also has 3 hinges, but they’re really strong just with two. I personally think the bigger concern is the fact that the barn doors are only latched inside with one top latch. I actually did put a bottom inside latch on my door that goes into the tailgate and that firmed everything up. The locking latches armatures are cast something (zinc?) and not the strongest, and I did have the arm of my bottom locking latch distort a bit.

I did put a 10 lb propane mount on my two hinge door. The tank is alum, so with the mount and all it weighs about 25 lb. However, I haven’t used it offroad yet, but with the double inside latch on that door, it doesn’t worry me. The first picture above is the internal reinforcement I put on the barn door to support the propane mount and tank.
Thanks! That's very helpful. I'll have to think through where to add reinforcements more. I have a window in each 50/50 door for a narrow Gladiator bed. Not as much space to add more reinforcement, but possibly doing short 8020 pieces on the inside above and below the windows. The VHB is a good tip too.
 

aaaslayer

Active member
Question, for those of you mounting tracks (L, 8020, etc) to the outside to carry heavier stuff like fuel, are you rivnutting the tracks onto the underlying studs or through-bolting? I rivnutted some interior L-track and it seems ultra solid, but haven't done this much and those tracks aren't holding much weight. Any problem using rivnuts instead of through bolts to the rear doors to hold the smaller propane bottles (5-10lbs)?
I bolted right through the studs. My rear half barn door does not have a middle stud, only the stud to the left and right (pretty much the frame). Don't do what I did though, I didn't realize the right stud sits on top of the weather gasket and aluminum angle, and I drilled through both the frame on the barn door and the weather gasket and the angle behind it. I have to figure out a way to seal that hole up now and I need to use different bolts. I bought stainless 1/4-20 2 inch bolts but hex head with 7/16 head. They don't fit into the channel. My 8020 did NOT come with a counterbore. I tried to make one using drill bits because I don't have an end mill or a milling machine. It looks like crap now. And was unable to even counterbore as the bit kept getting stuck or bouncing around.

I wound up grinding down the head of the bolts to make them fit into the channel. But I need to go to Lowes and buy smaller head bolts and possibly allen socket bolts and NOT hex head. Oh well you live and you learn.
 

CarolinaBlue

New member
If anyone is in the area near the shop or passes thru, please post more pics of the Chubby. It's still new and besides the original walk through vids, there aren't many pics or testimonials about that option yet.
 

dstefan

Well-known member
I bolted right through the studs. My rear half barn door does not have a middle stud, only the stud to the left and right (pretty much the frame). Don't do what I did though, I didn't realize the right stud sits on top of the weather gasket and aluminum angle, and I drilled through both the frame on the barn door and the weather gasket and the angle behind it. I have to figure out a way to seal that hole up now and I need to use different bolts. I bought stainless 1/4-20 2 inch bolts but hex head with 7/16 head. They don't fit into the channel. My 8020 did NOT come with a counterbore. I tried to make one using drill bits because I don't have an end mill or a milling machine. It looks like crap now. And was unable to even counterbore as the bit kept getting stuck or bouncing around.

I wound up grinding down the head of the bolts to make them fit into the channel. But I need to go to Lowes and buy smaller head bolts and possibly allen socket bolts and NOT hex head. Oh well you live and you learn.
If you’re hand drilling it’s real hard to open up the channel. I ended up using a 1/4 inch bit for the through hole and a very fat step drill for the counter bore, which worked well. I have hand drilled with that set up, but wouldn’t want to do it much. I also found that 1/4 20 stainless flat head bolts have a slope to the head that fits the 80/20 channel slope pretty securely once you counterbore the top of the channel slot out.

I do have a drill press, so that’s where I do mine if I can. There are pretty cheap table top drill hand drill “presses” that seem like they’d help. Also a small drill press vise — Harbor Freight might be your friend!
 

Fergie

Expedition Leader
If anyone is in the area near the shop or passes thru, please post more pics of the Chubby. It's still new and besides the original walk through vids, there aren't many pics or testimonials about that option yet.
I can swing by this week some time and see what they have. They are building a "Bivy Chubby" currently, and I should have time this week to check it out...the benefits of the shop being 5 mins away!
 

K9LTW

Active member
I’m about to order a overland cubby soon, I’m not really a over lander, I have both a jet ski and sxs and like camp at lakes and areas to ride, but anyway, I want to insulate it after I get it, but I always want line most of it with some kind carpet that Velcro works on, so what’s best type carpet?
I used adhesive carpet squares I got off Amazon, or if you want really cheap and light, just order some speaker enclosure carpet in a roll. Basically anything that has even a modest nap to it will work, you just don't want a super, super tight weave.
 

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